Mixed feelings

Why is cilantro so polarizing?

By Sona Pai
April 2, 2007

Describing the way something tastes often means comparing it to something else. Fennel tastes like licorice. Parmesan has a nutty flavor. Frog legs, alligator, and rattlesnake taste like chicken. But when we come across a food with a flavor we find unique, our best attempts at descriptive precision require some creative imprecision.

Take cilantro, an herb that people seem to either love, hate, or love to hate.

Personally, I love it. Growing up in an Indian household, I ate cilantro just about every day: sprinkled on my mother’s turmeric-yellow cauliflower, mixed in with my dad’s chicken curry, and puréed with mint in the spicy green chutney we ate with samosas or spread on a slice of bread.

I don’t remember ever thinking much about cilantro, just that it was always there and that it made everything taste sort of brisk and bright and green. I know that, technically, none of those words refers to a taste, but they are the best I can do.

When I began cooking on my own, I was surprised to find that some of my friends didn’t like cilantro. More accurately, they were revolted by it. Just saying the word “cilantro” made their faces contort in ways that actually looked painful. They said they couldn’t stand it, not even a little whiff of it. They said it tasted like fertilizer or cat litter or old pennies. The most common complaint was that it tasted like soap.

A cilantro garnish on chicken curry.

I assumed these people were just picky eaters and bad sports. They just weren’t used to cilantro, and so they assumed they didn’t like it without really giving it a fair shot. But the bizarre descriptions kept coming. I’ve heard people say it tastes like aluminum foil and like air freshener and like a migraine.

Jed Sundwall, who works at an Internet startup in San Diego, has been filming a documentary about cilantro as a side project. So far, he’s filmed people in Mexico, Brazil, Malta, San Diego, New York City, and Washington, D.C., talking about how they feel about cilantro, and he’s heard plenty of badmouthing.

One woman who had moved to northern Brazil from the south told him she lost 17 pounds because she couldn’t eat the north’s cilantro-laden food. “I’ve also heard someone say it tastes like hitting yourself in the head,” Sundwall says.

Sundwall says two of the most interesting things he’s learned about cilantro to date are:
1. It’s thought to be the most widely used herb in the world.
2. Julia Child hated it.

In a 2002 interview, Child told Larry King that the two foods she didn’t like at all were cilantro and arugula. She said if she saw one of them on her plate, she’d pick it out and throw it on the floor. To her, they had a “dead taste.”

An ancient plant

For just about anyone who grew up in the diverse culinary traditions of Latin America, the Caribbean, Portugal, northern Africa, the Middle East, the South Asian subcontinent, and most of Asia, cilantro tastes like home.

The plant, Coriandrum sativum, is rich in vitamins A and C and belongs to the same family as carrots, cumin, anise, parsley, caraway, dill, and less common herbs with cool names like centella, sweet cicely and rock samphire. Archaeological and linguistic evidence indicate that the plant, likely a Mediterranean native, was widely cultivated throughout that region, the Middle East, and South Asia by the second millennium B.C. and possibly even earlier.

Today, the term “cilantro” refers to the plant’s delicate green leaves, while the seeds, which are technically fruits, are known as coriander. A beloved spice in the cilantro-loving world, coriander was also common in medieval Europe, and it’s still used throughout Europe as a flavoring for baked goods, sweets, beer, gin, and pickles.

Coriander has a strong, floral flavor, but it doesn’t share cilantro’s bad reputation. Even people who hate cilantro don’t seem to have a problem with coriander. When I gave my cilantro-hating friend Jason a coriander seed to chew on, he was fine with it, but he had to spit out a cilantro leaf immediately. My friend Yasmin says coriander is one of her favorite spices, but she says cilantro tastes like “pungent grass that may have been urinated upon.”

Coriander seeds.

Food writers and cilantro haters often repeat the assertion that the original Greek name of the plant, koriannon, is derived from the Greek word for bug, koris. More specifically, they say it’s a reference to the bedbug, which emits a musty, unpleasantly sweet odor when crushed.

In the spring 2001 issue of Gastronomica magazine, Helen Leach argues that there is no direct evidence to suggest a linguistic connection. She found ancient Greeks and Romans who wrote about coriander and about bedbugs, but she didn’t find anyone comparing the two or the way they smelled.

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1. by Liz Crain on Apr 2, 2007 at 10:12 AM PDT

Have you been able to convert any of your cilantro-hating friends to the church of cilantro? I find it’s hard to introduce to those who have an aversion because I usu. prepare it raw and/or as a garnish and in that way its flavor is in full force. Any suggestions?

2. by hokan on Apr 2, 2007 at 1:13 PM PDT

As a child, teen and young adult I found cilantro quite unpleasant, but now in my 50s it has lost whatever made it taste bad. I’m not a lover yet, but use the stuff without hesitation or remorse.

3. by anonymous on Apr 3, 2007 at 12:09 PM PDT

I can’t say I’ve made any conversions yet. I do think it’s interesting that when I don’t mention that I’m using cilantro (which I also always use raw, right before serving, or in marinades) no one spits anything out or complains. Often, I’ll serve the cilantro on the side, and the haters are usually grateful. I’ve heard many people say that their taste for the herb has changed with age -- from hater to lover and vice versa.

4. by Craig Leontos on Apr 3, 2007 at 1:28 PM PDT

I like cilantro because I think it has a fresh taste. It makes everything taste fresh. It has a very distinctive smell as well, and I like it. Sometimes I rub it on my neck and behind my ears if I don’t have any cologne handy because I always have cilantro handy.

I like Sona Pai too. Her writing is fresh. She has a very distinctive smell as well, and I like it. Kudos to Sona! Love you Sweetheart!

5. by Brian Boultinghouse on Apr 5, 2007 at 1:38 PM PDT

If at first u dont like cilantro, try try again. Cindy(my wife) hated Cilantro when we 1st met, but a decade of mexican/thai/vietnamese food i made her join in every chance i got has turned her into an addict. She likes it mor than me now, if that’s possible :P

6. by ximena on Apr 6, 2007 at 3:23 AM PDT

I have tried. I promise, I really have. It´s just that it does taste like soap. I expect little bubbles to come out of my mouth when I eat it. Too bad.

7. by rtysons on Feb 20, 2008 at 2:24 PM PST

I love it; my husband hates it. I grew up eating lots of Thai food; he grew up on the edges of PA Dutch country in Pennsylvania (salt, pepper, and ketchup are basically the only spices there).

I didn’t even realize he was a cilantro hater till he couldn’t stand a Thai squid dish when we were out with family a few years ago. He spit it out and said it tasted horrible. It took us a bit to dig through the dish and discover that it was the cilatro that was setting him off. It tastes soapy to him, and the fact that he has such an aversion to it is interesting, because he doesn’t have much of a sense of smell or, therefore, much of a sense of taste, so it’s obviously something very strong to him. He can’t even stand to be around me when I’ve been eating raw cilantro; the smell of it on my breath gets him. I highly doubt I’ll ever be able to convert him, but like Sona, I have discovered that he does not have the same aversion to coriander.

8. by dgreyson on Feb 20, 2008 at 9:53 PM PST

About two years ago, my mom mysteriously mostly lost her sense of smell, and along with it, her sense of taste. Interestingly, the few things she still can taste: mint, citrus in nearly all forms, and cilantro. Fortunately, she likes cilantro (maybe part of my genetic predisposition towards it!). Thank you for an interesting article.

9. by alicat on Feb 26, 2008 at 7:03 AM PST

I’ve slowly grown to find it OK in the context of Thai or Indian foods, though I’d never chew on a sprig by itself. I did find it soapy when I was younger, but I guess my palate has changed over the years. Everything in context, I say.

My younger sister still has a violent aversion to it.

10. by anonymous on May 22, 2008 at 12:11 AM PDT

Im on the hardcore hate side of the cilantro debate.. even though i consider myself a bit of a foodie...and will eat an enjoy the most bizarre of food, cilantro turns my stomach.. the smell, the flavor, everything about it... i wanted to like it..i try it again from time to time to see if my pallet has ‘evolved’ but that particular herb just disgusts me.. moreso every time im exposed to it.. at least im quite an accomplished cook and quite capable of cooking most anything much better then the local restaurants... unfortunately we have a huge illegal population locally whose wonderful cooking skills im unable to enjoy due to their liberal use of this horrible substance..

11. by anonymous on Jun 10, 2008 at 6:20 PM PDT

I don’t like cilantro. It tastes like soap to me. Everyone has their own tastes.

12. by anonymous on Jul 14, 2008 at 9:46 PM PDT

Your discussion of the etymology is a bit narrow: in much of the English speaking world (eg, UK, Australia, NZ), the leaves are called “Coriander” and the seeds “Coriander seeds”. The term “Cilantro” is totally unfamiliar.

13. by anonymous on Jul 15, 2008 at 12:50 AM PDT

In the US it is called Cilantro.

14. by anonymous on Aug 15, 2008 at 2:08 PM PDT

Its funny cos I have an yeeaaghh reaction to parsely. As a grnish or hidden somewhere in a dip is okay.

15. by Mark on Sep 5, 2008 at 5:19 PM PDT

You are wrong that “Even people who hate cilantro don’t seem to have a problem with coriander.” I find them equally vile and disgusting.

16. by Nycteris on Oct 13, 2008 at 8:41 AM PDT

I would LIKE to like cilantro. I also consider myself kind of a foodie. I’ve eaten natto, and durian... but I really cannot get over cilantro. I find it sticks out among other flavors like a disgusting sore thumb. I don’t always pick it out, but I don’t ever enjoy it.

17. by anonymous on Dec 26, 2008 at 2:42 PM PST

As a kid i didn’t like eating some food, they were mostly bitter vegatables, and I didn’t know why people ate them. But as an adult I can eat every type of vegatable now. Except cilantro. It is not a choice. It tastes so bad, I am immediately repelled off. My appetite goes off. I am still not sure whether its the taste or smell. I cant explain it any other way, but CANT STAND IT. I prefer not to eat mexican food only because of cilantro, unless I know which sides they put cilantro in. If they are putting it into lots of stuff that I basically come down to eating rice and meat, then I am never going there again.

18. by anonymous on Jan 23, 2009 at 9:27 AM PST

I hate HATE cilantro. It’s so bad that just looking at the stuff makes my stomach flip. I avoid eating Mexican food because the restaurants seem to put it in everything. I’m glad that I’m not alone, it seemed like everybody I met thought I was from Mars with my reaction to the vile ditch weed.

19. by Hilary Cable on Feb 18, 2009 at 4:49 PM PST

That’s easy! Cilantro tastes like turpentine. And I love it. The first time I ate it, I spit it out - it was such a shocking flavor when I expected something more lettuce-like. I guess I acquired the taste, though, because I put it on everything now.

20. by Hilary Cable on Feb 18, 2009 at 4:56 PM PST

“vile ditch weed” - - hilarious! :)

21. by anonymous on Feb 21, 2009 at 4:53 PM PST

The problem is that it’s not a strong enough statement merely to say that cilantro tastes like soap.

Imagine what it would be like if dishwashing detergent were not only used to wash dishes, but was also used to flavor food.

Imagine that many people around you and on the internet love the taste of dishwashing detergent, and can’t possibly understand that it isn’t the most delicious condiment on the planet, and that they are confused (or even upset) that you don’t want to put it in your mouth.

Imagine that there are entire cuisines that revolve around putting dishwashing detergent in food.

Then, perhaps you might just barely begin to understand how some of feel.

22. by llondon on Feb 24, 2009 at 2:38 PM PST

my understanding is that it’s not just a dislike or any aversion. it’s a genetic thing that causes some of us to feel that it tastes like dishwashing detergent. none of us say “we just don’t like it”. it tastes the same to all of us who can’t eat it. i wish it was simpler and i wish i liked it, but i just don’t. if you give me a spoonful of salsa w/one bit of stem in it, all i can taste is cilantro...and it’s very unpleasant.

23. by HellaDelicious on Mar 7, 2009 at 10:26 AM PST

Here’s a wild theory: maybe there is something missing or something extra in the saliva of people who dislike it, maybe it is just a chemical reaction, which maybe changes with whatever is in the saliva-it could even be a bacteria, perhaps, but the memory of that terrible taste stays with a person so they don’t want to try it again. Maybe it is even certain body types that react this way?

24. by anonymous on Apr 5, 2009 at 11:50 AM PDT

I am a hater. To me it so dominates the dish, it is the only thing I taste. It took me a while to actually identify what that truly terrible (to me) taste was. I really have no other food aversions except for fat or gristle in meats and I cannot wash a skillet that was used to fry hamburger, the smell nauseates me. I love basil!

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