I stuff my pockets with carrots before heading out back. Pausing at the garden, I pull rutabagas and flowering broccoli, then walk past the creek and up the tree-lined path. Chickens wander alongside to see what I’ve brought. Although my arms are nearly full, I bend to pick plantain before opening the barnyard gate.
Isabelle is in the side pasture with her two calves. I walk to her, rutabaga leaves waving in time to my steps, as she hurries toward me with the lumbering grace of a matronly Guernsey. Like shy but exuberant dancers, her calves follow in leaps and half-turns, their eyes bashfully averted.
Isabelle takes the food from my fingers gently, her soft lips brushing my skin. When I fumble, she waits patiently, drooling in anticipation as I snap the next carrot in half. A few weeks ago, during our evening-snack ritual, she dropped a mouthful of food, refusing to touch it again, yet took the next handful I offered. Later, I realized that morning glory was growing in the patch of clover I’d picked for her. Isabelle had immediately detected the presence of a plant toxic to her heart.
The calves watch their mother eat. Tentatively, they lean forward to touch rutabaga leaves with their noses. Although curious, they prefer their mother’s milk. Their idyllic lives — out on pasture with their mother, nursing on demand — are rare on today’s dairy farm.
Most dairy calves are separated from their mothers soon after birth. It’s considered more cost-effective to give the calves something called “calf milk replacer.” But this white fluid resembles cow milk only to lab analysts, as the ingredients may include wheat, soy, lard, fish, and animal plasma (often from pig blood).
When we were new to farming, everything we read warned that a calf left with its mother to nurse freely was likely to develop scours, a potentially fatal condition. We couldn’t imagine that nature had it wrong and agriculture manuals had it right. Besides, we had no intention of separating mother from calf.
A little research showed that the experts were looking at it the problem upside down. Scours is more likely to happen in calves taken from their mothers so soon that they’re deprived of the antibody-rich colostrum that flows from their mothers’ udders right after birth.
Isabelle is an attentive mother. She teaches with nudges, head movements, and a variety of vocalizations. She stands still when her calves choose to nurse, moving no more than her tail to flick away flies.
Each of Isabelle’s calves has been significantly bigger than the average for her breed, with no medical problems. And we’ve always had more than enough milk for our human family while she nurses a calf or two for a year.
On our farm, the bond we witness between cow and calf forces us to recognize the toll taken by standard agricultural practices. One day, we were at a nearby dairy when farmhands came to take a day-old calf from its mother. As the men approached, a dozen other cows in the pen formed a circle against them, keeping the mother and calf in the center. After losing the struggle to protect one of their own, the cows began bawling, and soon the cows in the other buildings joined in. We could hear them as we drove away.
All around us, dairy farms isolate calves in “calf huts,” where they’re fed calf milk replacer. Most often, their mothers live confined indoors, their sensitive noses smelling their own calves and green grass, both forever beyond their reach.
Our veterinarian tells us that in 26 years, he’s never seen dairy calves raised alongside their mothers except on our farm. He remains astonished by what he regards as the uncharacteristic size and robust health of the calves here.
Isabelle belches appreciatively. It smells like the hay we harvested last summer. Gas emissions from both ends of cattle have been blamed for contributing to global climate change. Yet studies indicate that the net effect of grass-fed cattle actually slows global warming. Confinement farming and unnatural feeding are the problem.
Cattle have evolved to thrive on nothing but grass and its dry counterpart, hay. It’s another of nature’s miracles that cows can grow so large and produce such rich milk purely from grass, a plant inedible to humans. Yet according to Jo Robinson’s book Pasture Perfect: The Far-Reaching Benefits of Choosing Meat, Eggs, and Dairy Products from Grass-Fed Animals, cattle on today’s farms are fed diets heavy in grains, protein supplements, and bulking agents such as cardboard, chicken feathers, and stale candy. Even plastic pot scrubbers have been used to replace the roughage that simple grass naturally provides. These artificial diets cause a range of physical disorders, so the typical cow diet is further adulterated with synthetic nutrients and medications.
Pastured cows have fewer reproductive problems and produce larger, healthier calves. The more fresh grass a cow eats, the more vitamin E, omega-3 fatty acids, and cancer-fighting conjugated linoleic acid (CLA) she’ll produce in her milk. In fact, the older a cow gets, the higher the CLA levels in her milk.
But dairy cows in this country don’t live long. They’re culled at three, four, maybe five years old. Overproduction, unnatural diets, and confinement make them unprofitable after that age, even though cows can easily reproduce and give milk well into their teens.
Isabelle is nearly 12 years old. She chooses to spend most of her time outdoors. She’s curious about anything new going on nearby, and mindful of chickens pecking underfoot. Such curiosity is typical of her kind. Even animal researchers have been surprised to discover cattle have "eureka" moments when solving problems, a moment so gratifying that some cows leap in the air. Isabelle, though a middle-aged lady, regularly indulges in those leaping moments. She scampers girlishly, tosses her head, and runs in sheer pleasure. When she lies down to rest, she lets the barn cats sleep on her warm hide.
Isabelle chews slowly. Her teeth crunch on broccoli and her tongue flicks out to catch a wayward cluster before it falls. Cattle seem to be contemplative eaters. Given free pastoral range, they select grasses with high nutrient levels, instinctively self-medicating with the right plants when ill. They choose to graze alongside favorite herd mates, just as we prefer lunching with friends. After eating, they digest as all ruminants do, chewing their cud to enjoy the meal all over again.
My hands are empty now. I stroke Isabelle’s face and manage to rub the nearest calf’s hide. Soon they’ll wander back to the shady part of the pasture together. There they’ll eat grass, or milk made from grass, eating within the perfect circle of sun, soil, and sustenance. The calves will nap under an apple tree’s long shadow and Isabelle will bring up rutabagas, broccoli, and carrots to chew again, a reminder of a meal offered by loving hands.
Laura Grace Weldon lives with her family on Bit of Earth Farm in Ohio. Her book Free Range Learning comes out this summer.
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There are 25 comments on this item
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1. by Grace C. on Jan 19, 2010 at 11:42 AM PST
I just spent about an hour reading over the links and found out a lot I didn’t know. Now I will be thinking happy thoughts about Isabelle when I feel grumpy about how much organic milk costs.
I’d love to see more articles like this one.
2. by Natalie James on Jan 19, 2010 at 1:12 PM PST
This article made me want to someday have a cow on our farm, allowed to live and mother naturally. In the mean time, it made me want to try to patronize farms that treat their cows like this. But they are so few and far between...=/
3. by anonymous on Jan 19, 2010 at 5:27 PM PST
Excellent article! Thanks!
4. by nekobasu on Jan 20, 2010 at 8:18 AM PST
Great article, though it made me nostalgic for my childhood; we raised pastured cattle on a small farm in Oregon. I still find it hard to believe that anyone thinks the commercial practices are a good idea. I’m not romantic about raising animals, but don’t they have any qualms about the suffering they inflict?
5. by Burp_Blog on Jan 20, 2010 at 12:11 PM PST
Love this article. This is the sort of news we need to start hearing more of.
It’s a great reminder of how the basics of farming are SO VERY important to our food supply. It’s not about Big Factory Farming; it’s about the little things. Little Things that end up being the Most Important Things.
6. by Jessie Voigts on Jan 20, 2010 at 12:33 PM PST
wonderful!! being raised on a farm, i didn’t know that there was another way to do things than what i’d seen. it seems so crazy to separate and feed lesser things, doesn’t it? ugh. great, great article.,
7. by Linda on Jan 20, 2010 at 12:59 PM PST
Thank you for this inspiring article. One of my life goals is to someday have a pasture with a few lovely cows. My husband strives to gently remove this silly notion from my head but I will cling to it stubbornly for all of my days.
8. by dgreenwood on Jan 20, 2010 at 1:14 PM PST
Loved this! Wish I had land so I could have a cow. I know it’s a romantic notion for a NYC kid, but I can dream...
9. by Susan Burmeister-Brown on Jan 20, 2010 at 3:59 PM PST
What a fabulous article. The image of those cows trying to keep the one-day-old calf from being taken, and then their subsequent bawling -- gosh.
10. by vesperlight on Jan 20, 2010 at 4:02 PM PST
Thank you for this lovely, contemplative piece. I already buy grass-fed beef and pastured chickens and eggs when they are available (and when I can). More food for thought.
11. by Laura Weldon on Jan 20, 2010 at 4:09 PM PST
I dearly appreciate your kind comments. Every effort each of us makes to raise our own food sustainably is a positive step, whether it’s sprouting alfalfa seeds on your counter or changing zoning regulations so you can raise chickens and goats in your backyard.
Those of you who are interested in in owning a cow some day may be interested in the book Keeping a Family Cow by Joann S. Grohman or participating in the Keeping a Family Cow forum http://familycow.proboards.com/index.cgi
12. by kelly on Jan 21, 2010 at 8:47 PM PST
I grew up in Wisconsin in an area thick with dairy farms. My dad is a large animal veterinarian, and I got to visit dozens of the farms going with him. But I never saw anything like your farm. Sigh.
13. by zegg on Jan 22, 2010 at 9:54 AM PST
Note Grace C, that “organic milk” probably doesn’t come from as idyllic a scenario as this. Several of the big organic milk producers use the same type of concentrated feeding operations as non-organic. “Organic” just means they were fed organically-grown grain, and not pumped up with hormones etc.
14. by anonymous on Feb 3, 2010 at 12:49 PM PST
Very inspiring. Although a meat eater, factory farming roils my stomach. This loving article written about a humanely cared for animal has moved me.
15. by anonymous on Feb 4, 2010 at 9:29 AM PST
I really enjoyed reading this, although it made me sad to think of the unrelenting stupidity when it comes to the treatment of animals. Thank you.
16. by anonymous on Feb 6, 2010 at 6:30 PM PST
I need to coment on your article. The modern dairy cow is evolved into a milk making machine a average cow like the one in your picture whould give about 9 or 10 gallons of milk daily enough milk for ten calves and if the cow is not milked empty daily her udder whould get a fever and the could get sick and die and her one calf (twins are rare) whould over indulge if a person did not watch carefully. Just my insight from years of experience.
17. by Rose Cameron on Feb 12, 2010 at 1:08 PM PST
Wonderful article about how animals should be raised and treated. It’s hard to believe how poorly animals are treated in the farming and food industry. Thank you for this well written reminder on the importance of the source of our food.
18. by nicecupoftea on Mar 17, 2010 at 11:07 PM PDT
I’ve been vegetarian for a long time because of farming practices like the ones described here, but I’d have a very hard time giving up cheese. Any suggestions about how I can find out more about farming practices behind specific brands and types of cheese? I’ve no intention of eating Kraft cheese slices or anything like that, but what about the more interesting cheeses in my local supermarket? I’ve been eating a lot of locally-produced goat cheese from the farmers’ market, but I do like a bit of variety now and again.
Thanks a lot to anyone who can point me in the right direction!
19. by Laura Weldon on Apr 17, 2010 at 9:50 AM PDT
I so enjoy reading these comments. I dearly hope more of us start to see it’s possible to own a family cow or collectively share ownership of a cow not far from our homes. It’s only within the last 100 years or so that most families became disconnected from the sources of their food.
To anon of Feb 6th. I have to disagree on several points.
The modern dairy cow didn’t naturally “evolve” into a milk making machine. Breeds have been tinkered with to produce as much as possible for the lowest costs.
*The cow pictured is a Guernsey. This breed doesn’t produce 9 to 10 gallons a day, nor would that many gallons be sufficient for 10 calves.
*Our cow, as stated in the article, produces enough milk daily for two calves and our family of six.
*Our experience and the long experience of other people owning family cows shows that calves do NOT overindulge. I can’t imagine the circumstances under which that might happen unless extreme duress. Oh wait, perhaps standard farming practices of separating cow and calf qualifies.
*Guernseys are extremely hardy and gentle, perfect for those considering a family cow http://www.worldguernseys.org/advantages.html
20. by Laura Weldon on Apr 17, 2010 at 9:58 AM PDT
Nicecupoftea, I couldn’t give up cheese either!
I don’t know if you can determine exactly how animals are treated unless visiting the farms, but short of that there are steps you can take. Artisan cheeses (like some you find at the farmer’s market) tend to be made using ingredients with higher standards tracing back to the farm.
You might also consider raw milk cheese. I know there’s a great deal of controversy. I am on the raw milk side for a variety of reasons http://www.realmilk.com/ one of which is that raw cheese makers tend to have strong ethics about their products and sourcing. Here’s an interesting piece on the topic http://www.caberfeidh.com/RawCheese.htm
As more of us care about how our food is raised, the better it will be for our land and animals. thanks nicecupoftea.
21. by nicecupoftea on Apr 19, 2010 at 11:59 AM PDT
Thanks Laura, I’ll check out those links. I don’t have much hope of finding raw milk cheese where I live, but one day I would love to have a cow of my own - always thought they were beautiful animals.
22. by Laura Grace on Dec 13, 2011 at 8:30 PM PST
Dear Laura,
Since we both share the same names “Laura Grace” your articles keep popping up on Google along with mine. It’s a real joy to read your writing. I came across this article and was deeply moved. I grew up in Michigan and love farm animals. Now I live in California and am vegetarian. My love for animals continues to grow as does my sensitivity to how they are being treated. Thank you for writing such a heartfelt article.
Namaste,
Laura Grace
23. by Laura Weldon on Mar 26, 2012 at 6:34 AM PDT
I’ve run across your writing too, Laura Grace, and find such lovely synchronicity between our interests. We have more than our names in common. Glad to find a kindred spirit online.
24. by anonymous on Apr 5, 2012 at 4:40 AM PDT
I’ve been searching the web for an article like this. I needed to verify my own thoughts about raising cows and their calves sensibly. A million thanks!
25. by anonymous on Sep 12, 2012 at 5:46 PM PDT
If you are eventually going to cut its throat and eat it, it does’nt matter how lovingly an animal was treated. in fact it sounds more diabolical - like unncessary drama of love before the blood bath. hypocrisy has to stop.
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