Quick: Which kind of baking powder is on your cupboard shelf?
If you’re like many people I’ve asked, you might not know. Responses I’ve heard include “the one with the little girl,” or “the one with the retro label.” Those who could remember tended to have Clabber Girl (the best-selling brand in the U.S.), Calumet, or Rumford. When asked why they bought a particular brand, most referred again to the label (people like that little girl!) or answered, simply, “It’s what my mother used.”
Baking powder is one of the few cooking ingredients we still treat with ambivalence. Today we choose between different chocolates and vanillas, and even salt has become worthy of our attention. But for many, baking powder remains a little-understood ingredient. We know it’s different than baking soda, but beyond that, we assume that all baking powders are the same.
We are wrong.
Baking powder is baking soda combined with an acid. Baking soda is an alkaline leavening agent, which requires the addition of an acid for two reasons. One is to neutralize the alkaline taste. If you have ever mistakenly used baking soda instead of baking powder in your biscuits, you won’t forget the soapy taste. The other reason is to instigate a chemical reaction. Remember mixing baking soda with vinegar as a child? That mad bubbling was the release of carbon dioxide; in baking, it causes your cake to rise.
Buttermilk, yogurt, chocolate, honey, or molasses might be the acid ingredient that sparks the baking soda in a cake. But what about all the biscuits, cakes, and quick breads that don’t have one of those acidic ingredients? That’s where baking powder comes in.
In 1859, Rumford — the first calcium-phosphate baking powder — was patented. Before that, home bakers relied on various leaveners, such as potash and hartshorn (though this ammonium carbonate works only for crisp baked goods, such as cookies).
Today’s Rumford is a double-acting phosphate baking powder, using monocalcium phosphate (MCP) as its acid. MCP reacts mainly upon the introduction of a liquid, but because of the way it’s been treated, the reaction is a bit slower, and gets a small final oomph (about one-third of its reaction) in the oven.
Other double-acting baking powders (such as Clabber Girl and Calumet) use sodium aluminum sulfate (SAS) as well as MCP. The MCP causes the first reaction that occurs during mixing, and the SAS causes a second, heat-activated reaction. Obviously, the SAS buys the baker a little time, making baking “safer” and more forgiving. It also seems to make a fluffier biscuit.
Cream of tartar is a naturally occurring organic acid derived from tartaric acid. When mixed with baking soda, it makes a fine baking powder. Many cooks tend to have both cream of tartar and baking soda on hand and can therefore whip up a batch of homemade baking powder on short notice — a godsend if you realize midway through a cake-baking project that you’re out of the store-bought stuff.
Southern cooking expert Edna Lewis liked to use a ratio of two to one; Scott Peacock, who worked with Lewis for many years, published her baking-powder recipe this year in both the January Gourmet and the March Bon Appétit. In On Food and Cooking, cooking chemist Harold McGee suggests 1 1/4 teaspoons cream of tartar to neutralize 1 teaspoon baking soda. And pastry chef Lindsey Shere, in Chez Panisse Desserts, adds cornstarch to the mix: 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon cream of tartar, and 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch.
Shere happens to be my mother, so I asked her about her recipe. She explained that the cornstarch stabilizes the mixture. A tartar-and-soda powder reacts when a liquid is combined with the dry ingredients, which means a fresh cake batter must go into the oven as quickly as possible. Cornstarch protects against a premature reaction, Shere says, adding that the cornstarch is also useful if you’re cooking in a humid kitchen or planning to store the homemade baking powder for a while.
Some sources caution that too much sodium aluminum sulfate (one of the acids present in Clabber Girl and Calumet baking powders) results in a bitter taste. Overused or not, I find the aluminum taste always detectable in the finished product.
I’m not the only person who notices this; many of my cookbooks counsel the home baker to seek out aluminum-free baking powder. Rose Levy Beranbaum, Mark Bittman, David Lebovitz, and Greg Patent recommend the aluminum-free Rumford. And in the book he co-wrote with Edna Lewis, The Gift of Southern Cooking, Scott Peacock admits that while initially he couldn’t detect the difference, he soon learned to discern the metallic taste.
As a child, I used Calumet baking powder. I remember making 1-2-3-4 cakes and associating a particular taste with them. Later, we started using Rumford (a lot of people shifted to this brand initially to avoid ingesting aluminum), and I found that the unusual taste was no longer present.
For a long time, I suspected that if people tasted otherwise identical cakes or biscuits made with either aluminum-based or aluminum-free baking powders, they would instantly notice the difference. But when I conducted my own double-blind taste experiment — with an admittedly small sample pool of only nine people and a yellow cake made with cake flour and vanilla — I found that most people (six out of nine) couldn’t detect a difference between the two powders. I was one of the three who could, and I found the bitter taste a deal-breaker. No one noticed a difference in the two cakes’ structures.
I tried a second cake, using all-purpose flour and omitting the vanilla. My tasting pool this time was even smaller (only four people), and everyone noted the metallic taste of the aluminum.
Later, I baked biscuits with the two baking powders. This time around, three out of five people noted the bitter taste and found it unpleasant. The two biscuits’ structures also differed. I preferred the flakier quality of the aluminum-free biscuit, while the two tasters who couldn’t detect a taste difference declared a preference for the fluffier texture of the aluminum-based biscuit.
If so few people notice the difference, why bother? Why learn to taste something that will ruin many cakes for you?
Well, not so long ago people also drank coffee brands indiscriminately. When we linger over a perfect cappuccino today, do we regret burnt, weak coffee being forever ruined for us?
As for the question of textures, I like what pastry chef Shuna Fish Lydon has to say on her blog, Eggbeater: “We tend to associate a high rise with excellence. It’s why much of our baked goods are way too big. My feeling has always been that I want to achieve a wonderful crumb, but not to the detriment of taste. Call it comfort alongside fashion, if you will.”
Or having your cake and eating it, too. One of my tasters noted that in the aluminum-free cake, there was no interruption to the flavor of sweet goodness. Learning to taste and appreciate our food is what makes cooking and eating a worthy and pleasurable adventure.
Giovanna Remolif Zivny is a writer living in Portland, Oregon, with her husband and three children. Her writing has appeared in Gourmet magazine.
Related recipe: Yogurt Biscuits; recipe: Last Word in Nutmeg Muffins
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There are 18 comments on this item
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1. by donaleen on Jul 22, 2008 at 9:03 AM PDT
I thought that it was important to bake something pretty quickly if it had baking powder or soda in it (because the moisture activates the leavening) However, the NY TImes has an article on best chocolate chip cookies that says to refrigerate the dough for 36 hours. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/09/dining/091crex.html?_r=1&ref=dining&oref=slogin
2. by cafemama on Jul 22, 2008 at 11:53 AM PDT
thanks Giovanna, for this lovely piece on baking powder. i have recently been baking solely with baking soda, not knowing the chemistry behind the interaction (though i often include buttermilk and cultured butter, so i suppose i’m getting my acid without realizing). now i’ll know to include cream of tartar if i don’t have an acidic component!
i also have noted a heightened taste sensitivity once i stopped eating much white sugar and processed foods; i wonder if some of your tasters who didn’t notice the difference simply have a larger proportion of chemicals already in their diet, and they’re inured to the taste?
and like donaleen i wonder about the chocolate chip cookie recipe. i really have to try that recipe...
3. by Caroline Cummins on Jul 22, 2008 at 2:22 PM PDT
Ladies: Please peruse the comments chat held by me and Matthew Amster-Burton on the chocolate-chip-cookie thing.
4. by Petrovame on Jul 24, 2008 at 5:31 AM PDT
Very interesting! Here in Maine, we use Bakewell Cream, which is aluminum-free and is used in a 2 to 1 ratio with baking soda (for instance 2/3 tsp. Bakewell Cream to 1/3 tsp. baking soda). But next time I buy double-acting baking powder, I’ll look for Rumford.
5. by ruth_117 on Jul 24, 2008 at 7:25 AM PDT
Up in Canada a favourite brand is Magic Baking Powder. It is an all-phosphate baking powder (containing calcium acid phosphate - no aluminum). My big question is why recipes call for both baking powder and baking soda, if baking powder already has baking soda in it?!?
6. by giovannaz on Jul 25, 2008 at 9:28 AM PDT
Thanks Cafemama--interesting thought about taste sensitivity. I wish I’d had more immediate family members tasting to test this--I suppose it might be part of the question. Though I must admit I eat plenty of white sugar! It did seem that cake flour (which has its own chemical taste) obscured the metallic taste to more people than all-purpose flour did.
And to Petrovame and Ruth, it’s interesting how many regional products there are. Is Bakewell is a SAS (single-acting)baking powder? Magic Baking Powder--according to the web--appears to be an all-phosphate baking powder containing calcium acid phosphate--just like Rumford.
As for the question about recipes calling for both baking soda and baking powder, this seems to occur in recipes with an acid ingredient. My understanding is that the baking soda would give an extra boost as well as neutralize the acid flavor. Rose Levy Beranbaum discusses this in ‘The Cake Bible’. She prefers not neutralizing the buttermilk flavor, finding the cake’s flavor fuller and texture finer when she uses baking powder by itself. Beranbaum is careful to use only as much leavening as necessary in her recipes—to the point that she has worked out that 1/2 cup buttermilk + 1/4 tsp. baking soda = 1-1/8 tsp baking powder—not the 1 tsp the USDA suggests.
Clearly, a lot of cake baking is called for to experiment with this!
7. by Fasenfest on Jul 28, 2008 at 5:29 PM PDT
Whenever I am given a choice between a good recipe and the science behind it, I am sure to choose the science. That is because I like to go it alone and find recipes somewhat tiresome in there tendency to promote fashion over solid cooking foundations. So thank you Giovanna for giving me something worthy of the recipe files. This one will show up over and over again in the recipes of my imagination. Keep them coming!
8. by David Zivny on Dec 13, 2008 at 3:41 PM PST
I stumbled onto this site due to the mentioning of Clabber Girl Baking Powder. It may interest Giovanna to learn that I programmed the machinery that fills the Baking Powder Canisters for Clabber Girl. Small World.
David R. Zivny
9. by Jay on Feb 17, 2009 at 6:49 PM PST
I really liked this post. I too notice a taste in baked goods with aluminum baking powder. I am going to switch to non aluminum baking powder and see if I can detect a difference.
10. by anonymous on Aug 23, 2009 at 11:42 AM PDT
When I’ve made a mistake in measuring. Is there a way to neutralize the taste of too much baking powder? Help!
11. by anonymous on Jul 30, 2010 at 8:16 AM PDT
To anonymous: too much leavening will cause the bubbles in the batter to rise to the top while baking and they’ll pop instead of staying inside the muffine or cake and retaining the bubbles to create the crumb. For two cups of flour, 1 teaspoon of baking powder should do it as I read on another article on this website. They may sink in the middle, and the texture might be a bit off, but I’m sure they would still be delicious! Depends on what you are trying to bake I guess.
12. by anonymous on Dec 12, 2010 at 9:42 PM PST
Thanks for the notes on the baking powder.
I’ve noticed that with biscuits, or pancakes, if I put in a touch too much aluminum baking powder, they have a repulsive taste.... I’m surprised that not everyone notices this. Since I don’t measure everything, the non-aluminum powders are much easier to use for this very reason.
Plus, there is an association between Alzheimer’s disease and Aluminum. No causality has been demonstrated yet, but it just seems prudent to minimize the exposure.
13. by jeff d. on Feb 17, 2011 at 8:56 AM PST
Giovanni
Very good article. I can taste the aluminum. I just associated that with baking powder/soda. I didn’t know It was actually in there.
One important thing to note is that there are three kinds of taster’s. Super tasters, average, and non-taster’s(doesn’t mean they can’t taste anything). We used this a lot in the coffee world for tastings. They actually have tests you can take for this(fun).
So my question is, why would a recipe for sourdough pancakes call for starter and baking soda?
14. by Fasenfest on Feb 17, 2011 at 9:21 AM PST
Hey Jeff,
My experience is that making sourdough pancakes without the soda leaves them flat. They have that great taste and may have a more traditional texture, but the soda seems to give them the loft I’m after. But that’s the unscientific read on it.
15. by giovannaz on Feb 17, 2011 at 9:30 AM PST
Hi there--my understanding is that a sourdough starter is generally used together with additional yeast in bread.
From Wikipedia: ‘The other manner of using sourdough starter is common for making quick breads or foods like pancakes. It involves using baking soda (and sometimes baking powder) to neutralize some or all of the acid in the starter, with the acid-base reaction generating carbon dioxide to provide lift to the dough or batter in a manner very similar to Irish soda bread. This technique is particularly common in kitchens where the starter is intentionally kept off-balance, with a substantially high acid level, and is particularly associated with areas such as Alaska.’
16. by anonymous on Feb 29, 2012 at 1:09 PM PST
I can no longer use Rumfort baking powder as one of it’s ingredients is mono calcium phosphate. My husband is on a renal diet in which all phosphates are taboo. I just wish Rumfort would replace mono-calcium phosphate with cream of tarter. Renal deficiency is on the rise in the U.S. Most Doctors will not tell you your kidneys are in stage two or stage 3 unless you are passing blood and protein in your urine. And renal function declines with age. How many people are even aware of this?
17. by Trupti on Nov 10, 2012 at 12:23 AM PST
I bake eggless cake and cookies. I always get the ‘bad’ taste, which I thought was due to the soda or baking powder. And I thought I would always get that in home baked eggless goods. Thanks to your post, I realized it is due to the aluminum in the baking powder. I am eager to change the baking powder and see the difference!
18. by anonymous on Dec 20, 2012 at 1:24 PM PST
The local health food store was out of Rumford, and I picked up some Calumet at the grocery instead. My scone recipe uses one tablespoon of baking powder, and was absolutely ruined by the metallic taste of the Calumet - inedible. Looking forward to trying the cream of tartar/baking soda substitution. Thanks!
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