Irons in the fire

The original nonstick pan

By Ashley Griffin Gartland
December 22, 2008

Until aluminum became affordable in the late 20th century, cast iron was the cookware of choice in American kitchens. But aluminum — coated with its easy-clean pal, Teflon — briefly bumped cast iron off the top shelf. That is, until reports arose connecting nonstick pans to health concerns. And we looked around and found that cast iron was more useful than ever.

Today, Food & Wine magazine includes not one but two cast-iron pans on its list of 10 essential pans. Cookbook authors Sharon Kramis and Julie Kramis Hearne wrote an entire book about classic cast-iron cooking, The Cast Iron Skillet Cookbook. On Culinate, both Eric Gower and Kelly Myers have declared their love for cast iron. And Mark Bittman wrote in the New York Times that cast iron was the most versatile and durable stuff in his kitchen.

cast-iron pans
Cast-iron pans are a kitchen essential.

Cast iron goes from stovetop to oven with ease, which makes it a logical choice for both stovetop preparations like Artichoke Pancakes with Goat Cheese, from the food blog 101 Cookbooks, and baked dishes like Irish Soda Bread, from the food blog Smitten Kitchen. Cast iron also evenly distributes heat to food, making browning, searing, and even deep-frying efficient.

Cast-iron pans are a bargain; their price tag hovers around $20, and you can often find old cast-iron pans for even less at flea markets and garage sales. And they can last forever; your grandkids might someday be cooking with your cast-iron pans.

The two drawbacks to cast-iron pans are their weight (heavy) and their maintenance (minimal, but you can’t just sling them in the dishwasher).

Some chefs consider the hefty feel of cast iron a pro rather than a con. “The fact that they are heavy is what makes these pans so good for the preferred applications, like cornbread, for instance,” says Lenore Emery, the co-owner of the EVOO Cannon Beach Cooking School in Cannon Beach, Oregon.

Cast-iron pans must also be kept seasoned, to ensure that their surfaces are nonstick. A seasoning is nothing more than a thin coating of baked-on grease, which seals the porous iron and creates a smooth surface. If you’re buying new pans, you can either get them pre-seasoned or season them yourself.

After you’ve seasoned a cast-iron pan, make sure to heat it well before adding any fat, and use hot water and a scouring pad to wash it after use. Never use soap or steel wool, as both will spoil the seasoning.

From time to time, you may need to re-season a cast-iron pan, particularly if you burn something in it or forget to dry it and it starts to rust. Re-seasoning takes just a few minutes, and ensures that your pan retains its shiny black patina.

Keep your cast-iron pans handy and seasoned, and you’ll soon find yourself using them for nearly everything: frying eggs, searing meat, baking bread. Not bad for the original nonstick pan.

Ashley Griffin Gartland is a Portland-based food writer and the executive director of the Portland Culinary Alliance.

Related recipe: Skillet Cornbread

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1. by LOVESTOBAKEJUSTLAZY on Dec 22, 2008 at 11:12 AM PST

how do you reseason a pan properly?

2. by vesperlight on Dec 22, 2008 at 12:56 PM PST

I love my 10-inch cast iron skillet, which cost me only a few dollars at an estate sale. I use it for making fritattas (one of the few dishes I can sneak extra vegetables into that my son will eat) and slide it under the broiler to set the top of the eggs and melt some cheese on top. In addition to cornbread, I have used it to bake deep chicken pot-pies and apple pies.

3. by Janice on Dec 22, 2008 at 1:25 PM PST

To reseason a cast iron pan, wipe a thin layer of oil or grease over the pan. Then put it in the oven for an hour or so on fairly low heat, maybe 200 to 250.

Instead of formally reseasoning my pans when I scorch their coatings off (which happens more often than it should), I just keep cooking with them. I probably wouldn’t bake anything in a cast iron pan without seasoning, but it’ll work fine for sauteing or making a stew, etc. Just heat it up and add a little oil. After a couple more recipes, voila, a new seasoning is there. I use my cast iron pans almost every day, so it doesn’t take long for the new seasoning to build up.

Oh, and my favorite cast iron frying pan was my grandmother’s. I think of her whenever I pull it out.

4. by anonymous on Dec 22, 2008 at 8:44 PM PST

Better way to reseason -- cook something very fatty. Fried chicken in 1 inch of oil. Breakfast sausage. Bacon, low and slow. Schnitzel. You are getting two-for-the-price-of-one. Yummy food, plus a long heat with ample fat to reseason the pan. This has worked consistently for me, and my pans now live on top of my stove. They make way only for kettles, or for one beloved stainless pan with a heavy bottom that reappears only to make scrambled eggs or if I need a lid for something.

5. by Cyndi on Dec 26, 2008 at 7:00 AM PST

The article states that once the pan is seasoned, you can use it for anything. This is true, but applies to the long-term seasoning that comes from months or years of use and good care. The initial seasoning isn’t enough (do spend the extra couple dollars to get the pans pre-seasoned, but know that it only replaces most of the initial seasoning and doesn’t give you a pan like grandma had).

You can cook in high fat applications right away, but it will take a few months before you can do low oil without anything sticking and longer before you can do cornbread. Eggs take quite a while. But the pans last longer than humans do and all of this is worth it.

I have stainless pots for soup and other liquids, my husband keeps one evil nonstick for eggs, and we have a carbon steel pan shaped like a wok (similar seasoning requirements). Other than that, we use cast iron (acquired at our wedding 3+ years ago) for everything. And, yes, I finally made cornbread in it.

6. by riceoflife on Dec 29, 2008 at 4:25 PM PST

I love my cast iron pan. It makes everything good. I especially love making home fried potatoes in the skillet on the weekends. I really can’t think of a better way to start the morning.

7. by Bavaria on Dec 30, 2008 at 8:33 AM PST

A 12” cast iron skillet is often my choice for raosting a chicken or a pork loin. It makes it easy to transfer the pan to the stovetop for deglazing and reducing those delicious juices and bits.

8. by anonymous on Dec 31, 2008 at 1:56 PM PST

I have been ‘collecting’ cast iron skillets and dutch ovens for years. Nothing braises stew meat better!

9. by Harry on Dec 31, 2008 at 2:18 PM PST

I have an article with some history and more information about about cast iron. Read it here.

10. by Emily H. on Dec 31, 2008 at 4:14 PM PST

Yes, yes, yes! I love cast iron. I have a couple of hefty (and expensive) copper skillets, but what I find myself using 90 percent of the time are my cast-iron skillet (my mom’s, which was my grandmother’s), a Chinese hammered cast-iron wok, and my Staub Dutch ovens (which the company calls cocottes). The Staub pieces weren’t especially inexpensive (I guess for all that fancy glaze and the nubbed lids), but I use them every single day.
And I agree, estate sales and thrift shops are fantastic places to find perfectly good cast iron for next to nothing.
Best kind of cookware one can have in the kitchen, if you ask me.

11. by Larry A. on Dec 31, 2008 at 6:42 PM PST

After every use wipe/lightly scrub out food debris under warm running water. Put the pan back on the heat with a bit of any cooking oil. After it heats up turn off the heat. I use a piece of crumbled clean newspaper to wipe the entire inside of the pan with the warm oil. Compost the newspaper and let the pan just cool down with the new layer of oil. It works like a dream every time!

12. by mandahxo on Jan 5, 2009 at 7:18 AM PST

I have an 8” skillet that was my great-grandfather’s, a deep 12” that was my grandmother’s, a large 18” with a glass cover that my dad found, and my most recent addition is a griddle that I bought at a flea market. It fits quite nicely over my electric stove burners, and I cook pancakes and french toast on it (often with bacon grease). I also figured out that one of the BEST ways to clean these up is with the nylon scrapers that I got with my Pampered Chef stoneware - it’s amazing!

13. by anonymous on Jan 6, 2009 at 12:52 PM PST

I was looking at the mothering.com discussion boards the other day, and someone posted a dilemma which amused me: she’d recently found a cast iron skillet along the side of the road and was trying to decide whether it was safe to use it. Consensus was yes--she had her husband grind it way down until it was no longer seasoned, then seasoned it herself and put it to good use. People there had all sorts of good stories about cast iron...

14. by tesashel on Jan 24, 2009 at 5:08 PM PST

I use my cast iron skillets every day for cooking. Initially I bought a set which were for “campfire” cooking. :) I remember my grandmother always used hers (gas stove) and when it got built up with stuff she would take it to a guy who would use his welding torch and cut the gunk off and it would be good as new. I couldn’t live without mine, and it makes the best cornbread!

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