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Raw milk versus the cooked

By Sona Pai
October 30, 2007

I’m not much of a milk drinker. I rarely drink it by the glass, but I try to be mindful of what I put in my cereal or my coffee. I buy organic, I buy as local as possible, and I feel good about my choices. Early this fall, however, I found out that I was pregnant with my first child. And I started thinking about milk a little differently.

As anyone who has ever been pregnant can confirm, the realization that you are now not one but two comes with a mixture of joy and anxiety, as well as an inundation of information. Specifically, you learn right away about what you should consume (whole grains, leafy green vegetables, plenty of dairy) and what you shouldn’t (sushi, deli meat, unpasteurized milk and cheese).

Cursed with both an aversion to being told I can’t do something and an inclination to become over-informed, I read everything I could about why I shouldn’t eat or drink the items on the “no” list. I also stocked up on milk, half and half, cheese, cottage cheese, yogurt, and ice cream.

What kind of milk do you drink?

Most of what I read about the “no” list made sense to me. Even though I’m always careful about what I eat and where it comes from, I decided I could do without sushi for nine months to avoid the risk of parasites. And I could skip the turkey sandwiches to avoid salmonella or listeria contamination. These bacteria can cause a few days of discomfort for me, but they can be far more dangerous (and even deadly) to my developing child.

However, when I read about unpasteurized dairy products — also known as “raw” dairy products — I got confused. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the American Medical Association, the American Academy of Pediatrics, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and other public-health organizations categorically caution everyone, not just expectant moms, against consuming unpasteurized milk and anything made from it because of the risk of contamination by such harmful bacteria as salmonella, listeria, E. coli, campylobacter, and brucella. Almost every news item I read quoted FDA official John Sheehan saying that drinking unpasteurized milk is “like playing Russian roulette with your health.”

Sounds straightforward enough, right?

It’s not.

The raw believers

I also found a wealth of information touting the benefits of drinking raw milk. Raw-milk drinkers talk about their choice with the enthusiasm of the devout. They adore its richer, creamier taste and describe it as a sort of miracle elixir with a unique cocktail of proteins, fats, nutrients, and beneficial bacteria that are vital to human health and that suffer the same fate as harmful bacteria in the pasteurization process.

They believe that raw milk cured their asthma and chronic fatigue syndrome, eczema, irritable bowel syndrome, blurred vision, and a host of other ailments. Many also point to evidence that milk in its natural state contains “good” microorganisms that actually keep troublesome pathogens in check.

Although the sale of raw milk is illegal in some states and heavily restricted in most, raw-milk drinkers have ways of getting it. They can buy it directly by going to a farm. They can get it indirectly, through underground milk clubs. In some states, they can legally purchase bottles of raw milk so long as it’s sold with a label stating “for pet consumption only.” Or they can acquire it through cow-sharing arrangements, in which consumers chip in for the care and maintenance of a farmer’s herd and enjoy the milk as a perk of ownership.

No matter how they get it, raw-milk enthusiasts emphasize that the important thing is knowing where it comes from. The perfect source of raw milk? A farm where the cows are pastured, raised on grass or hay instead of corn, never given hormones, and kept by a farmer trusted to keep every bit of the operation meticulously clean.

Advocates assert that raw milk is vastly superior to its commercially processed and pasteurized counterpart. They believe drinking raw milk is one of the best things you can do for your health, and they believe this just as fervently as public-health advocates believe it’s one of the most dangerous choices you can make.

When one person’s panacea is another’s poison, what’s a mother-to-be — or any conscientious milk drinker — to do?

Is a glass of raw milk half bad or all good?

In 1912, the epidemiologist Milton Joseph Rosenau published a series of lectures under the title The Milk Question. At the time, most Americans drank milk in its raw state, straight from the farm. As more Americans moved to cities, milk had to travel farther from cow to cup, and that gave dangerous bacteria more time to grow and thrive. Rising infant mortality and outbreaks of disease (such as tuberculosis and typhoid) attributed to milk consumption presented public-health officials with the troublesome “milk question”: How could Americans get wholesome milk without being subjected to the dangers of the bacteria it could contain?

Rosenau saw milk as “the most difficult standard food item to gather, handle, transport, and deliver in a fresh, clean, safe, and satisfactory manner.” He noted that nutrient-rich milk provided an ideal medium for harmful bacteria. Milk posed a particularly significant problem, he said, because it affected every aspect of American life, from individual health to the national economy, and because of its role as a primary source of nutrition for vulnerable infants and children.

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1. by Holly on Oct 30, 2007 at 1:03 PM PDT

“What if we put the same amount of money and energy into ensuring that all milk is clean and safe from the time it leaves the cow?”

Yes! Dear God, yes!

(The answer is, of course, “because it’s not as profitable to big dairy.” But that sounds cynical so I won’t say it.)

This is one of my pet issues. Thank you for reporting on it.

2. by Charlotte on Oct 30, 2007 at 7:22 PM PDT

I trust the woman I buy raw milk from in a way that I don’t think I’d trust any kind of commercial operation. I’ve only been drinking Colette’s milk for a couple of months, but the odd GI issues I’d been plagued with are clearing up, and the yogurt I can make from her milk is a thing of beauty. But like I said -- I trust her. I know how meticulous she is, and I know that if she showed up to do a weekly delivery and I was sick, it would be personal. A commercial dairy -- where they don’t know me (and likely don’t know their cows)? I would be much less willing to buy raw milk that way.

3. by Kelly Myers on Oct 30, 2007 at 8:15 PM PDT

I grew up amidst the dairy farms of Wisconsin; my father is a large animal veterinarian. In the years that he practiced he saw the average daily milk production of a cow more than double. During those same years there was a surplus of milk. The government began paying those who owned small family farms to leave dairy farming. Conventional dairy farmers have had to increase production to stay profitable.

My dad’s clients always drank their own cows’ milk, of course, and of course it was not pastuerized. I think it’s fine to drink raw milk if you do not have lowered immunity, and if you can visit the farm where the cows are milked. I recall from trailing along with my dad that barns are like people’s homes, with a range of housekeeping standards.

4. by jennie on Oct 31, 2007 at 5:55 AM PDT

It is so nice to see increasing coverage of this issue. I wish the usda was able to recognize that if the milk starts out clean and is handled safely there is no need for pasteurization. Of course this is the same organization that thinks that instead of requiring meat packing plant to be clean we should just tell consumers to cook their meat to a higher temperature; so it’s not really a surprise.
Holly is entirely correct. If it were possible for raw milk to be safely produced cheaply on a large scale it would be perfectly legal and large dairy companies would be charging a premium for it.

5. by Sean on Nov 1, 2007 at 10:20 AM PDT

I question your underlying assumption that dairy milk is not only beneficial to human health but required for a healthy pregnancy. Why in principle would the mamary secretions of another species, one which has only existed in its current form for the last 10,000 years, be an integral part of the human diet? There have been numerous studies over the years which indicate correlations between milk consumption and the onset of a variety of cancers and chronic disease. I think you may need to reconsider your position on milk consumption in general, beyond any raw vs. pasturized debate.

Also, Weston Price was not a reputable scientist and his work has been discredited by the mainstream medical community. If you want another perspective on him and his theories check out: http://www.quackwatch.org/01QuackeryRelatedTopics/holisticdent.html.

6. by izzy's mama on Nov 2, 2007 at 8:21 AM PDT

I have been blogging about my experiences joining a raw-milk group in my neighborhood:

http://izzyeats.blogspot.com/2007/10/dabbling-in-raw-milk-on-trail-of.html

Thank you for providing a more complete historical perspective. I find this entire dairy business fascinating.

7. by Holly on Nov 3, 2007 at 5:35 PM PDT

“Why in principle would the mamary secretions of another species, one which has only existed in its current form for the last 10,000 years, be an integral part of the human diet?”

Because we’re omnivores, and we can. In some areas, milk (and not merely cow’s milk) is the most reliable source of protein and fats available to the human population. Aside from humans, most carnivores that I know of will consume milk from their prey if given the chance.

“There have been numerous studies over the years which indicate correlations between milk consumption and the onset of a variety of cancers and chronic disease.”

For many people, those correlations are not compelling enough to override the perceived benefits of milk consumption. I, for one, find the inavailability of safety information about soy-based products, and particularly GM soy products, far more worrisome than any recent “correlations” about the safety of a food that humans have been consuming for 10,000 years.

“If you want another perspective on Price and his theories check out ...

I did, however I find it not relevant to this discussion, because that article is about holistic dentistry. The fact that the men who wrote the article disagree with the actions and beliefs of some of Price’s scientific progeny does not automatically render all of Price’s observations and reseach inacurate or irrelevant.

One might, perhaps, assume that the readers here are well-informed and curious enough to have heard the counter-arguments and come to their own conclusions, already.

8. by Bronwyn on Nov 16, 2007 at 1:37 AM PST

Well, I live in New Zealand, where all of the cows live in paddocks (fields, pasture) and eat grass. And are exposed to all sorts of pathogens in the environment - notably tuberculosis, which, despite all the efforts of all the farmers and conservation people, is endemic amongst the umpty-million-odd possums our country is infested with. Milk is a wonderful food - but I’m damned if I’d eat unpasteurised commercial milk. I HAVE had raw milk while at the farms of friends, but only from the pampered house cow who lives out the back of the house, never from the commercial herd. They’re tested, of course, and any cow with TB (a rare occurrence) is excluded, but I like to make doubly sure.

And I don’t know about your dairy companies in America, but I’m sure ours would do away with pasteurisation if they could - it’s just more expense for them.

9. by Bri Brownlow on Nov 30, 2007 at 5:10 PM PST

Thank you for your thorough article, Sona. It’s interesting how circumstances in our lives make us look at something from a new perspective. I have been thinking about and researching where my milk comes from a lot lately. My Whole Foods sells raw milk and I often wonder about it. It makes perfect sense that pasturization of milk would have become so prevalent once we were shipping it hundreds if not thousands of miles away. Again, I think the best option is to get to know where our food comes from and create relationships with those people, animals and that land.

10. by Angela Harms on Apr 30, 2008 at 3:44 PM PDT

What a great article. Congratulations on the baby, and thanks for writing this. I lost my source for raw milk for a while, but recently got a new one. I made butter with my first batch this week, and blogged about it at lifelovefood.com

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