Book Excerpt

A Food Lover’s Treasury

By and
November 20, 2008

From Chapter 6: Mood

My mum, I missed her so much. I didn’t wash my clothes because I could still smell the faintest fragrance of her cooking on them. I’d sit there, on the floor by the manky old wall heater, a shirt or jumper in my hands, recalling the array of her specialities: keema, gosht, saag cholay, puree, halwa, chaat, stuffed kerala, lassi saag, and on the mental list went, with me reliving and salivating over the mere thought of any one of her meals, thinking about the care she took over them, the pleasure I took in eating them. Even something simple like roti she prayed over as she slapped off the excess flour, both hands working as one, stretching, spreading, and caressing the dough into a perfect circle every time.

— M. Y. Alam, Kilo (2002)

“Now, cheer up, Toad,” she said coaxingly, on entering, “and sit up and dry your eyes and be a sensible animal. And do try and eat a bit of dinner. See, I’ve brought you some of mine, hot from the oven!”

It was bubble-and-squeak, between two plates, and its fragrance filled the narrow cell. The penetrating smell of cabbage reached the nose of Toad as he lay prostrate in his misery on the floor, and gave him the idea for a moment that perhaps life was not such a blank and desperate thing as he had imagined. But still he wailed, and kicked with his legs, and refused to be comforted.

So the wise girl retired for the time, but, of course, a good deal of the smell of hot cabbage remained behind, as it will do, and Toad, between his sobs, sniffed and reflected, and gradually began to think new and inspiring thoughts: of chivalry, and poetry, and deeds still to be done; of broad meadows, and cattle browsing in them, raked by sun and wind; of kitchen-gardens, and straight herb-borders, and warm snap-dragon beset by bees; and of the comforting clink of dishes set down on the table at Toad Hall, and the scrape of chair-legs on the floor as everyone pulled himself close up to this work.

— Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows (1908)

JACK: How can you sit there, calmly eating muffins when we are in this horrible trouble, I can’t make out. You seem to me to be perfectly heartless.

ALGERNON: Well, I can’t eat muffins in an agitated manner. The butter would probably get on my cuffs. One should always eat muffins quite calmly. It is the only way to eat them.
JACK: I say it’s perfectly heartless your eating muffins at all, under the circumstances.
ALGERNON: When I am in trouble, eating is the only thing that consoles me. Indeed, when I am in really great trouble, as anyone who knows me intimately will tell you, I refuse everything except food and drink. At the present moment I am eating muffins because I am unhappy. Besides, I am particularly fond of muffins.

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— Oscar Wilde, The Importance of Being Earnest (1895)

The cheering sound of “Dinner is upon the table,” dissolved his reverie, and we all sat down without any symptom of ill humour. There were present, besides Mr. Wilkes, and Mr. Arthur Lee, who was an old companion of mine when he studies physick at Edinburgh, Mr. (now Sir John) Miller, Dr. Lettsom, and Mr. Slater the druggist. Mr. Wilkes placed himself next to Dr. Johnson, and behaved to him with so much attention and politeness, that he gained upon him insensibly.

pumpkin muffins
Buttered muffins should be eaten calmly, according to Oscar Wilde.

No man eats more heartily than Johnson, or loved better what was nice and delicate. Mr. Wilkes was very assiduous in helping him to some fine veal. “Pray give me leave, Sir: — It is better here — A little of the brown — Some fat, Sir — A little of the stuffing — Some of the gravy — Let me have the pleasure of giving you some butter — Allow me to recommend a squeeze of this orange; — or the lemon, perhaps, may have more zest.” — “Sir, sir, I am obliged to you, Sir,” cried Johnson, bowing, and turning his head to him with a look for some time of “surly virtue,” but, in a short while, of complacency.

— James Boswell, Life of Johnson (1791)

Now, the most pleasant feature of lunch at a country house is this — that you may sit next to whomsoever you please. At dinner she may be entrusted to quite the wrong man; at breakfast you are faced with the problem of being neither too early for her nor yet too late for a seat beside her; at tea people have a habit of taking your chair at the moment when a simple act of courtesy has drawn you from it in search of bread and butter; but at lunch you follow her in and there you are — fixed.

— A. A. Milne, “Lunch” (1934)

Angelica, the lovely Angelica, forgot little Tuscan black-puddings and part of her good manners and devoured her food with the appetite of her 17 years and the vigour given by grasping her fork halfway up the handle. Tancredi, in an attempt to link gallantry with greed, tried to imagine himself tasting, in the aromatic forkfuls, the kisses of his neighbour Angelica, but he realised at once that the experiment was disgusting and suspended it, with a mental reserve about reviving this fantasy with the pudding; the Prince, although rapt in the contemplation of Angelica sitting opposite him, was the only one at table able to notice that the demi-glace was overfilled, and made a mental note to tell the cook so next day; the others ate without thinking of anything, and without realising that the food seemed so delicious because sensuality was circulating in the house.

— Giuseppe di Lampedusa, The Leopard (1958)

The servant took away the empty dishes and came back with an earthenware bowl of crayfish swimming in a steaming, delicious-smelling, spicy broth. They devoured them with great gusto. Joyce added even more pepper and then stuck out her tongue as if it were on fire. Alec slowly poured the chilled wine; it made the glasses turn misty.

“We’ll have champagne in our room tonight, as we always do,” murmured Joyce, slightly tipsy, while cracking an enormous crayfish between her teeth. “What kind of champagne do they have? I want some Cliquot, very dry.”

She raised her glass between her cupped hands.

“Look . . . the wine is the same colour as the moon tonight, all golden . . ."

They drank together from the same glass, merging their moist, peppery lips, lips so young that nothing could change the way they tasted of ripe fruit.

—Irène Némirovsky, David Golder (1929)

Give me Books, fruit, French wine and fine weather and a little music out of doors, played by somebody I do not know.

— John Keats, letter to Fanny Keats, 28th August 1819

Congratulations to Dave, Marilyn, and Mickey, who each won a copy of this book on Monday, December 1, 2008 from among all the commenters to that point.

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There are 11 comments on this item
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1. by arbeck on Nov 20, 2008 at 12:33 PM PST

Those persons who suffer from indigestion, or who become drunk, are utterly ignorant of the true principles of eating and drinking.

2. by Marilyn Noble on Nov 20, 2008 at 1:23 PM PST

(Breadbaking is) one of those almost hypnotic businesses, like a dance from some ancient ceremony. It leaves you filled with one of the world’s sweetest smells... there is no chiropractic treatment, no Yoga exercise, no hour of meditation in a music-throbbing chapel, that will leave you emptier of bad thoughts than this homely ceremony of making bread. M.F.K. Fisher, The Art of Eating

3. by Syd on Nov 20, 2008 at 7:52 PM PST

Eat food, not too much, mostly plants -- Michael Pollan “In Defense of
Food”

4. by Chris P. on Nov 20, 2008 at 8:15 PM PST

Albert himself, a pudgy sorrowful boy of twelve, ridiculed for his flab and the great insatiable fist of his appetite, had experienced the grand epiphany of his life in one of Udolfo’s dark smoky, and for him at least, forever exotic banquettes. Sampling the vermicelli with oil, garlic, olives and forest mushrooms, the osso buco with the little twists of bowtie pasta that drunk up its buttery juices, he knew just as certainly as Alexander must have known he was born to conquer, that he, Albert DiAngelo was born to eat. And far from being something to be ashamed of, it was glorious. Avocation and vocation, both, the highest pinnacle to which he could aspire.

- From TC Boyle’s short story Sorry Fugu, collected in “If the River was Whiskey.” This story was featured in NPR’s Selected Shorts. It is a great pleasure to cook and listen to the story read.

5. by Alejandra on Nov 21, 2008 at 8:44 AM PST

I love the following from Kim Sunee’s Trail of Crumbs:

“He popped open the Champagne and poured two glasses. He dipped his forefinger into my glass, touched the back of each of my ears with a drop of the cold liquid, and offered a toast. Olivier winked, and I could feel everything melting, the space between my legs. I leaned back and closed my eyes, ready for him to kiss me, but he filled my mouth with a sweetness I had never known before, deeper than honey. I opened my eyes to a handful of fresh fat figs dripping with their own milk. He whispered that we would roast them with red wine, taste them with acacia blossoms he would fry and powder with fine sugar.

.I pushed the hair off my face, and the sweetness from the wild figs stuck to my fingers and lips. I licked them again, willing myself to memorize that full-mouth flavor.”

6. by thepiranha on Nov 25, 2008 at 10:09 AM PST

“One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.”

From “A Room of One’s Own” by Virginia Woolf.

7. by Gayle on Nov 25, 2008 at 12:05 PM PST

”Here! Try some of this, young lady!” And he held out a piece of chocolate, pale brown with cold. I smiled and took it, resolving to say as little as possible…
In my mouth the chocolate broke at first like gravel into many separate, disagreeable bits. I began to wonder if I could swallow them. Then they grew soft, and melted voluptuously into a warm stream down my throat.

From “The Measure of Her Powers” By M. F. K. Fisher

8. by mickey on Nov 25, 2008 at 1:00 PM PST

Tis an ill cook that cannot lick his own fingers
- William Shakespeare - Romeo and Juliet - act 4, scene 2

9. by helen york on Nov 26, 2008 at 7:17 AM PST

From “The Sex Life of Food” by Bunny Crumpacker, Thomas Dunne Books, 2006

“Two Cannibalism Jokes:

First Cannibal: ‘I can’t stand my Mother-In-Law!’
Second Cannibal: ‘Just eat the noodles.’

Is it true that cannibals don’t eat clowns because they taste funny? George Carlin

10. by Lois Leveen on Nov 27, 2008 at 12:13 AM PST

Louisa May Alcott’s Little Women was my favorite book, one I read over and over again growing up. It’s amazing I ever learned to cook after indulging in this particular chapter so many times. I’d forgotten the details of the scene, though I remembered word for word Meg’s summation of what is wrong with dessert.

“Language cannot describe the anxieties, experiences, and exertions which Jo underwent that morning, and the dinner she served up became a
standing joke. Fearing to ask any more advice, she did her best alone,
and discovered that something more than energy and good will is necessary to make a cook. She boiled the asparagus for an hour and was grieved to find the heads cooked off and the stalks harder than ever.
The bread burned black, for the salad dressing so aggravated her that she could not make it fit to ear. The lobster was a scarlet mystery to
her, but she hammered and poked till it was unshelled and its meager proportions concealed in a grove of lettuce leaves. The potatoes had
to be hurried, not to keep the asparagus waiting, and were not done at the last. The blancmange was lumpy, and the strawberries not as ripe as they looked, having been skilfully `deaconed’.

“Well, they can eat beef and bread and butter, if they are hungry, only it’s mortifying to have to spend your whole morning for nothing,” thought Jo, as she rang the bell half an hour later than
usual, and stood, hot, tired, and dispirited, surveying the feast spread before Laurie, accustomed to all sorts of elegance, and Miss Crocker, whose tattling tongue would report them far and wide.

Poor Jo would gladly have gone under the table, as one thing after another was tasted and left, while Amy giggled, Meg looked distressed, Miss Crocker pursed her lips, and Laurie talked and laughed with all his might to give a cheerful tone to the festive
scene. Jo’s one strong point was the fruit, for she had sugared it well, and had a pitcher of rich cream to eat with it. Her hot cheeks cooled a trifle, and she drew a long breath as the pretty glass
plates went round, and everyone looked graciously at the little rosy islands floating in a sea of cream. Miss Crocker tasted first, made a wry face, and drank some water hastily. Jo, who refused, thinking
there might not be enough, for they dwindled sadly after the picking over, glanced at Laurie, but he was eating away manfully, though there was a slight pucker about his mouth and he kept his eye fixed on his plate. Amy, who was fond of delicate fare, took a heaping spoonful, choked, hid her face in her napkin, and left the table precipitately.

“Oh, what is it?” exclaimed Jo, trembling.

“Salt instead of sugar, and the cream is sour,” replied Meg with a tragic gesture.

Jo uttered a groan and fell back in her chair, remembering that she had given a last hasty powdering to the berries out of one of
the two boxes on the kitchen table, and had neglected to put the milk in the refrigerator. She turned scarlet and was on the verge of crying, when she met Laurie’s eyes, which would look merry in
spite of his heroic efforts. The comical side of the affair suddenly struck her, and she laughed till the tears ran down her cheeks. So did everyone else, even `Croaker’ as the girls called the old lady,
and the unfortunate dinner ended gaily, with bread and butter, olives and fun.”

11. by elysek on Nov 29, 2008 at 2:07 PM PST

“‘There is no such passion in human nature as the passion for gravy among gentlemen. It’s nothing to say a joint won’t yield - a whole criminal wouldn’t yield - the amount of gravy they expect at dinner. And what I have undergone in consequence,’ cried Mrs Todgers, raising her eyes and shaking her head, ‘no-one would believe!’”

From Martin Chuzzlewit by Charles Dickens

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