There is cake served with fruit compote, and then there is an upside-down cake. The two are similar on the surface — both consist of cakes topped with cooked sugared fruit — but the differences in texture and flavor are profound. Upside-down cake is better.

This is because spreading a layer of sweetened fruit beneath the batter accomplishes several delectable things. The compote continues to caramelize in the oven, turning butterscotchy, candied, and shiny, while delicately flavoring the cake batter through and through. Plus, in this particular example, the syrupy topping helps keep the cake moist for several days, while the cornmeal in the batter keeps everything from getting soggy.

I make a version of this rustic, coarse-crumbed upside-down cake all year long, varying the fruit to match what’s around. But summer, when I always buy too much fruit to eat between market visits, is the ideal time. It’s one of the few homey, not-too-sweet summer treats worth turning the oven on for. Even in August.

Steps

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper and grease the parchment and pan well.
2. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the plums, ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, and ¼ teaspoon salt, stirring occasionally, until the plums are tender and the liquid begins to reduce, about 20 minutes. Spread the mixture into the prepared pan.
3. In a bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt.
4. In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter and the remaining 1 cup sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time and beat to combine. Beat in the sour cream and vanilla.
5. Use a spatula to fold in the dry ingredients. Scrape the batter on top of the plums and smooth with a spatula. Bake until the cake is golden and springs back when touched lightly, 45 to 55 minutes.
6. Allow the cake to cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then unmold the sides and invert onto a plate. Serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream, if desired.