This dish will probably get me banned from Japan, but it’s great for breakfast. Scallions would also be good in this roll, if your kids let you get away with something green.

Steps

1. Make the rice: Wash the rice in several changes of cold water and drain. Cook the rice with 1½ cups water in a rice cooker or saucepan. (If using a saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 20 minutes.) In either case, allow the rice to rest 20 to 30 minutes before proceeding.
2. Make the omelet: Meanwhile, beat the eggs, soy sauce, and 2 tsp. sugar together with a fork. Heat the oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat and add the eggs. When the top is nearly set, roll up the omelet into a coil and transfer to a plate. (If you’re not very good at making rolled omelets, join the club and don’t worry about it.) Let cool to room temperature. Cut the omelet into long ½-inch-wide strips.
3. Season the rice: In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, 4 tsp. sugar, and salt. Warm over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the sugar dissolves. (Alternatively, combine the ingredients in a bowl, heat for 30 seconds on high power in the microwave, and stir.) Turn the rice out onto a cutting board or into a large bowl. Add 1 Tbsp. of the vinegar mixture and “cut” it into the rice using a large spoon or spatula, using a motion similar to how you’d fold egg whites into batter. Add the remaining vinegar mixture and continue folding it into the rice. If you have a helper available, have her fan the rice to cool it during this process. (A child with a manila envelope works well.) Continue mixing until the rice is no longer steaming. Allow the rice to cool to room temperature.
4. Assemble the rolls: Spread a thin layer of rice (about 6 ounces) over the dull side of a sheet of nori, leaving a ½-inch strip clear at the top to seal the roll. Make a line of ham and omelet about 1 inch from the bottom. Roll it up. (You don’t need one of those bamboo mats; hands work fine.) Slice the roll into ¾-inch pieces and serve.