|Yield||12 standard muffins|
She hasn’t said so in so many words, but I have a hunch that my editor thinks I should explain why it took me no fewer than seven muffin recipes to stop fussing and find the perfect one to tell you about. Are muffin recipes that hard to come up with? No, not really. Do we perhaps just enjoy eating muffins so much that I looked for excuses to make more? Unfortunately, not that either. Am I really so terribly indecisive? Apparently, yes, but only in what I believed to be the quest for the greater muffin good. Okay, fine, and when I’m choosing earrings.
What finally led me here was, innocently enough, a basket of boring-looking lemon–poppy seed muffins at a bakery one morning; they got me wondering when poppy seeds would come untethered from lemon’s grasp. Poppy seeds are delightful on their own — faintly nutty bordering on fruity — but they also play well with fruit that is richer in flavor and texture than lemon. Inspired, I went home and, a short while later, finally pulled a muffin out of the oven I’d change nothing about. Poppy seeds, plums, browned butter, brown sugar, and sour cream form a muffin that’s rich with flavor, dense with fruit, and yet restrained enough to still feel like breakfast food. Seven rounds and six months in, I bet somewhere my editor is breathing a sigh of relief.
|6||Tbsp. (3 ounces or 85 grams) unsalted butter, melted and browned and cooled, plus butter for muffin cups|
|1||large egg, lightly beaten|
|¼||cup (50 grams) granulated sugar|
|¼||cup (50 grams) packed dark or light brown sugar|
|¾||cup (180 grams) sour cream or a rich, full-fat plain yogurt|
|½||cup (60 grams) whole-wheat flour|
|1||cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour|
|¾||tsp. baking powder|
|¾||tsp. baking soda|
|¼||tsp. table salt|
|~||Pinch of ground cinnamon|
|~||Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg|
|2||Tbsp. (20 grams) poppy seeds|
|2||cups pitted and diced plums, from about ¾ pound (340 grams) Italian prune plums (though any plum variety will do)|
Generally, I think muffins are best on the first day, but these surprise me by being twice as moist, with even more developed flavors, on day two. They’re just a little less crisp on top after being in an airtight container overnight.
You don’t create seven muffin recipes in a year without learning a few things. I found that you could dial back the sugar in most recipes quite a bit and not miss much (though, if you find that you do, a dusting of powdered sugar or a powdered-sugar–lemon-juice glaze works well here); that a little whole-wheat flour went a long way to keep muffins squarely in the breakfast department; that you can almost always replace sour cream with buttermilk or yogurt, but I like sour cream best. Thick batters — batters almost like cookie dough — keep fruit from sinking, and the best muffins have more fruit inside than seems, well, seemly. And, finally, in almost any muffin recipe, olive oil can replace butter, but people like you more when you use butter — and if you brown that butter first, you might have trouble getting them to leave.
Related article: Deb Perelman
This content is from the book The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook by Deb Perelman.
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