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Fruit close to its source
Now, fruit desserts
By Deborah Madison
April 7, 2010
A giveaway: Three days, three books. We’re giving away three copies of Deborah Madison’s new dessert book on Culinate. Leave a comment until Friday, April 16, at noon PT, for your chance to win; we’ll draw three winners from among all the commenters. Just tell us your favorite fruit, and what dessert you like to make with it. Good luck everyone!
Editor’s note: We congratulate our longtime contributor Deborah Madison, whose new book, Seasonal Fruit Desserts, has just been published by Broadway Books. We already love the book for its gorgeous photos and design, and for its seasonal approach to sweets. Deborah’s perspective on the book is here.
Five years ago, when I began work on Seasonal Fruit Desserts, I called it “Desserts for the Pastry Impaired,” because, well, I’m somewhat pastry-impaired. It’s not that I can’t roll out a pie crust, but when it comes to making picture-perfect, architectural desserts, I’m just not that adept at, or interested in, such feats.
Instead, I wanted to approach desserts in a more relaxed fashion, as a cook, which fruit lends itself to so very well. The book that finally emerged, Seasonal Fruit Desserts — a different title, but similar content — is actually a good fit, because fruit is produce, and produce is my long-abiding love interest.
Unlike vegetables, however, fruit, to be good, has to remain closer to the place it was raised. Which means it must be local and seasonal, and it must be a good variety — that is, mid-season fruit bred for flavor, not for its abilities to ship and store.
Think about it: It’s much harder to find a great plum than to find a great parsnip or even, these days, a great tomato, especially if you look no further than your (natural) supermarket.
Once again, farmers’ markets, orchards, and back yards were the places I went to find good fruit and learn about which varieties are stellar and why. As in Local Flavors, there are stories and information about the fruit itself as well as recipes.
When starting with fine fruit, one doesn’t really need recipes, though maybe some ideas for ways to combine fruits on a platter. This is where the book begins, before moving into compotes and roasted and sautéed fruits, then on to some classic American approaches before moving to tarts and galettes.
Following these very fruit-centric desserts, the book next considers fruit as an accompaniment. I’m thinking of a Semolina Pudding with Wine-Soaked Cherries, or the half dozen cakes that can accompany fruit compotes through all the seasons. Dried fruits play a big role, as those eating seasonally will have more reason to rely on them. Also prominent are the more interesting regional nuts one might come across in farmers’ markets, and grains, too.
Because our nation’s new cheeses are frankly divine paired with fruits and nuts, they are included too. (Think of Pure Luck’s Hopelessly Blue — such a great name and an even greater cheese — with the Texas pecans that grow nearby.) The book concludes with a chapter on sauces that can be made with one’s excess of fruit, such as an apple caramel sauce or a persimmon purée.
What doesn’t get a big mention is chocolate. I’m of the have-a-small-good-piece school, preferably with a Medjool date, a Pixie tangerine, and a few fresh-cracked walnuts. But for those who want more, there is more, including a moist steamed chocolate cake.
Early April is probably the worst month for fruit in most parts of the country. We’re tired of dried fruits, and the strawberries and rhubarb are not yet here for most of us. That leaves citrus. Still, the rhubarb is coming, so here is a simple purée to eat as is, make into a fool, fill a cornmeal tart shell, or pair with a spoonful of Ricotta Mousse. It’s made with a green heirloom rhubarb called Victoria, but you can use red stalks as well.
Deborah Madison is the author of numerous award-winning cookbooks, including Local Flavors. She lives in New Mexico.
Local FlavorsWinter market treasuresAnd a not-so-sticky pudding | Seasonal Fruit DessertsGreen Rhubarb Purée With Grapefruit | Local FlavorsFruity winter dessertsHealthful, delicious treats for a sugary season | Local FlavorsFood for the snow-boundPlus dessert! |
Local Flavors | |
| Deborah Madison, the celebrated cookbook author and local-food advocate, feeds us with her occasional reflections. Her latest book is Seasonal Fruit Desserts. She also hosts a radio show on Edible Radio called "Growing Connections." | |
- The beauty of breadcrumbs — Cherish the humble crumb
- Persimmon time — Ripened Hachiyas are a treasure
- Discovering a new squash — The Rugosa butternut
- A way with apples — Cooking down the harvest
Want more? Comb the archives.
| | Tomatoes in winterNo problem — when they’re cannedFind inspiration for winter dinners in a can of tomatoes. |
Local FlavorsThe beauty of breadcrumbsCherish the humble crumb | The Produce DiariesChia seedsThe latest superfood |
First PersonDinner of a lifetimeA changed man | OpinionThe evolution of fresh foodBack to the land — or at least to the farmers’ market |
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There are 36 comments on this item
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1. by Maria Hodkins on Apr 7, 2010 at 3:49 PM PDT
Your book sounds fantastic, Deborah--I can’t wait to see it!
2. by simona on Apr 7, 2010 at 10:47 PM PDT
I looked at the photo and I am already in love with the book. I am looking forward to diving into it.
3. by debra daniels-zeller on Apr 8, 2010 at 11:07 AM PDT
Your book arrived just yesterday and I stayed up last night perusing the recipes and reading about farms and orchards. I loved your idea of pairing rhubarb with something other than strawberries. For my first rhubarb crisp this year, I took some North Star pie cherries (from Grouse Mountain Farm in Chelan, Washington) from my freezer and the combination was so amazing, I can’t wait for cherry season this summer to try that combination again. What an inspiring book you’ve written. Thanks, Deborah!
4. by molly on Apr 12, 2010 at 8:05 AM PDT
Hot Diggity! I was just wondering when this title might hit the shelves, crossing my fingers for sooner over later. Now, if I can just keep them crossed long enough for our rhubarb to make it past pencil-thin, I’m set. Off to pick up a copy...
5. by Deborah Madison on Apr 13, 2010 at 9:42 AM PDT
Thank you all for your wonderful comments! I’ve been traveling so am late to respond to everything. Sorry.
I love the idea of cherries with rhubarb! I still have some cherries I froze last summer so I’ll give that a try, too. Thanks Debra!
And I must say, I love the words Hot Diggity! The rhubarb will come - it really will (I keep telling myself this, too!)
6. by Chris Nelson on Apr 13, 2010 at 11:50 AM PDT
As a kid, I never would have called blueberries my favorite fruit. Growing up in Maryland, cantaloupe was always a backyard favorite, as were strawberries. But now that I have a family, blueberries -- especially those grown in our backyard -- have taken on a prized role. And what we really love to make with them is blueberry buckle. We never made buckles before we read the King Arthur Flour cookbook. Now it’s a family favorite. Deborah Madison is also a family favorite! We can’t wait to try the recipes in her new book. Thanks for showcasing her!
7. by Talia on Apr 13, 2010 at 11:51 AM PDT
This book looks great and would be such a good addition to the Deborah Madison local flavors I have on the shelf. I think my favourite fruit dessert is grilled peaches with yoghurt (to which i often add a touch of booze), great peaches don’t need much, but I do sometimes put them in a pie which is great too!
8. by Gwynne on Apr 13, 2010 at 11:52 AM PDT
I love Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone - it completely changed how I think about food. I’m looking forward to seeing and cooking from Seasonal Fruit Desserts!
9. by Leigh on Apr 13, 2010 at 11:54 AM PDT
what a fantastic book! Can’t wait to try the recipes. One of my favorite fruit desserts is poached pears.
10. by Terri/Love & Confections on Apr 13, 2010 at 11:56 AM PDT
Cannot wait to look at the book. I can’t get enough of Bananas and my favorite dessert is a simple Banana Bread. Delicious!
11. by Veronica on Apr 13, 2010 at 12:02 PM PDT
My favorite fruit is Michigan blueberries (I live in Michigan). I love making a blueberry buckle. (I actually just made one from last season’s berries that I still had in the freezer.)
12. by Pat Hyduk on Apr 13, 2010 at 12:05 PM PDT
As a sometimes-but-not-always raw ‘live’ food fan, I look forward to a source of healthy desserts which Deborah Madison creates, those which contribute to well-being, both emotional and physical.
My favorite fruit is avocado (assuming you agree on its categorization). With it one can make unctuous, creamy sinful-seeming desserts with no dairy or gluten, simply by blending it with either raw organic cacao powder, or with fresh lime juice, adding stevia+maple syrup - keeps the calories low, without compromising taste. DIVINE! If you do not agree with avocado, then raw cranberries + sweet apples + dates + stevia for another raw, healthy, stimulatingly tart dessert - especially seductive with ice cream! DELISH. Ok Ok I do go off the wagon from time to time!
13. by melissa on Apr 13, 2010 at 12:08 PM PDT
omg, i love it! i cant wait to check it out and get inspired... besides eating it all!!!
14. by Iain Abernathy on Apr 13, 2010 at 12:08 PM PDT
My favorite fruit - blackberries. They are probably best in blackberry/apple or blackberry/rhubarb crumble, but I also like to make blackberry/rhubarb simple syrup for mixed drinks.
15. by Tracy on Apr 13, 2010 at 12:12 PM PDT
Pears - Pear Almond Tart!
A Pate Sucree with Almond Cream topped with pears. The pears become beautifully silky.
Thankfully they are perfectly in season for my Hub’s B-day as it’s his all time fave!
16. by Susan Kellen on Apr 13, 2010 at 12:13 PM PDT
I love to make peach-and-blueberry crisp. Peaches grown here in Pennsylvania are wonderful!
17. by Heather Christensen on Apr 13, 2010 at 12:28 PM PDT
Peaches. Cobbler. Yum.
18. by Eden Bainter on Apr 13, 2010 at 12:29 PM PDT
I enjoy making fruit sodas - strawberries, rhubarb or pear, it’s hard to go wrong.
19. by Robin Miller on Apr 13, 2010 at 12:46 PM PDT
Apricots are my absolute favorite fruit--ripe and fresh, they’re enough dessert for me, but I also love making apricot upside down cake.
20. by Kristin on Apr 13, 2010 at 12:54 PM PDT
I love strawberries and make a strawberry mascarpone tart a few times in the summer, it’s one of my favorite desserts.
21. by sanurajamila on Apr 13, 2010 at 1:26 PM PDT
All fruits are dear to my heart, but Granny Smith apples are appreciated the most. It has a tart, slightly sweet flavor that pairs well with savory and sweet dishes. The favorite dessert, is a classic recipe. It’s a warm apple pie topped with vanilla ice cream.
22. by eastbaymagpie on Apr 13, 2010 at 1:48 PM PDT
Strawberry shortcake with fresh whipped cream and a splash of Grand Marnier.. yum!
23. by shannon on Apr 13, 2010 at 1:58 PM PDT
fruit crisps are my favorite to bake!
24. by Michelle D ~ aka Sage on Apr 13, 2010 at 2:38 PM PDT
Strawberries: homegrown strawberries in vanilla yogurt with buttery homemade shortbread “spoons”. It has a flavor reminiscent of strawberry shortcake; very easy.
25. by maxie on Apr 13, 2010 at 4:18 PM PDT
Apples, apples, apples! My favorite is something my family called French Cobbler--It’s just a cobbler with vanilla and cinnamon flavoring the apples. Simple, quick and so good.
26. by vanillatea on Apr 13, 2010 at 7:09 PM PDT
I love apples the best. They are particularly delicious in pie with cheddar crust!
27. by T Crossley on Apr 14, 2010 at 11:03 AM PDT
A peach, picked fresh from my father’s orchard. If you want to get really fancy, a simple peach galette with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
28. by lafemmeartiste on Apr 14, 2010 at 4:31 PM PDT
Mango Mousse; no dairy. Delicate!
29. by Kathy Gehrt on Apr 14, 2010 at 9:18 PM PDT
Fresh fruit makes a fantastic dessert or snack. April in Seattle offers very little fresh locally grown fruit. About the only one that comes to mind is the one you mentioned - Rhubarb. Last week, I poached rhubarb in white wine with a vanilla bean and lavender-infused sugar. While it was still warm, I drizzeled this sauce over a scoop of vanilla ice cream.Delish. Can’t wait to try your rhubarb recipe.
30. by WET3 on Apr 15, 2010 at 9:36 AM PDT
I’ve always been a chocolate/dairy dessert kind of guy—ice cream, cookies, cakes, cheesecake, etc. Lately, I’ve been trying to eat healthier: less dairy and minimal processed food. So I’ve been on the lookout for ways to use fresh ingredients—particularly fruit—in dessert.
My favorite fruit is definitely mango. I haven’t had an Indian mango by itself yet, but my current favorite ones hail from Peru (they’re far superior to Mexican mangoes, in my opinion).
As for my favorite dessert with mango, it’s so good by itself that I haven’t actually tried making any desserts with it. If I were to, though, I might have to go for an upside-down cake.
31. by Kelli on Apr 15, 2010 at 10:51 AM PDT
I love fruit. I look forward to spring and summer so much because I can’t wait to eat fruit. I’m not sure there is a piece of fruit I don’t like.
This book sounds amazing. I don’t actually cook, I have just recently started taking an interest in cooking and baking and I believe this book would be a great start for someone like myself.
Although I do not bake yet, my favorite fruit receipe is any kind of fruit cobbler. Mmmm YUM. The way the butter and the fruit and the breading all mix together is so delicious and makes me feel so wonderful!
Happy fruit season!
32. by anonymous on Apr 15, 2010 at 6:19 PM PDT
I just got my first bunch of rhubarb at the farmer’s market yesterday. I only started eating rhubarb a few years ago, and I consider its season short, so I am excited to have this new friend back again. Wonder what I will make with it
33. by Laura Parisi on Apr 16, 2010 at 11:52 AM PDT
um, yum! I am totally getting rhubarb at the farmer’s market tomorrow to make this!!
34. by Diana Ellis on Apr 18, 2010 at 6:45 PM PDT
I love raspberries with rhubarb- I cheat the seasons by stashing some fall berries away in the freezer. That way I don’t have to wait for the strawberries here in Boise.
35. by Marilyn Nergord on May 5, 2010 at 12:23 PM PDT
You are one of my all time favorite cookbook authors! Thanks for publishing again
36. by legolas on Apr 9, 2011 at 7:16 PM PDT
although blueberries are not my favorite fruit, they are my favorite fruit-baked-type-thing. I make blueberry pie filling and serve it in bowls with a little heavy cream on top.
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