Hard-shelled winter squashes such as Hubbard or Danish, and their several cousins, have many fans, including us. Their flesh is naturally sweet and richly flavored. In this soup, squash is cooked with bacon, potatoes, and chicken broth before being puréed. Small uncooked chunks of squash and potatoes are reserved and added to the soup not long before serving to contribute textural appeal.

Steps

1. In a heavy 5-quart or larger pan, cook bacon over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown and renders some of its fat. Add carrot, celery, onion, and bell pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened but not browned, 5 to 10 minutes.
2. Peel squash with a vegetable peeler. Cut off top of any whole squashes and set aside, and use a large serving spoon to scrape out seeds. Cut enough squash (including tops) into ½-inch pieces to equal 2 cups and set aside. Cut remaining squash in 1-inch pieces, and add to pan. Add two-thirds of potatoes to pan. Place remaining potatoes in a bowl of cold water and set aside. Add stock or broth, tomato paste, oregano, paprika, and a few grinds of pepper.
3. Bring soup to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce heat to simmer, cover, and cook 20 minutes. Purée soup in a blender or in food processor fitted with the metal blade, and return to pan. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust seasonings if desired. Ten minutes before serving, add reserved squash and potato pieces and simmer, covered, until they are just cooked but not mushy. Ladle soup into warmed individual bowls or mugs and garnish with parsley.