It’s hard to believe I would make my own ketchup to give as gifts, considering that I grew up in Pittsburgh — home of Heinz and the big “Heinz 57” sign boldly lit and dominant on the skyline. It never even occurred to me that ketchup could be homemade until I ate at Paley’s Place in Portland, Oregon, and had chef Vitaly Paley’s deliciously nuanced ketchup. He makes all his condiments from scratch, including his ketchup, and I was inspired to make my own.
I wanted the bright, fresh flavors of Vitaly’s ketchup but with a smoky twist, so with his advice, I smoked the onions before stewing them with the tomatoes. Given in old-fashioned, hinge-topped, clear glass bottles, these make an adorable summertime present for the host of a backyard barbecue or as part of a Father’s Day gift.
| 2 | Tbsp. pulverized applewood smoking chips |
| 1 | medium yellow onion, cut into ½-inch-thick rounds |
| 1 | can (28-oz.) crushed tomatoes, including the juice from the can |
| 1 | Tbsp. capers, drained and rinsed |
| ½ | cup firmly packed light-brown sugar |
| ~ | Juice of 1 orange, strained |
| ~ | Juice of ½ grapefruit, strained |
| ~ | Juice of ½ lemon, strained |
| ¼ | cup cider vinegar |
| 2½ | tsp. kosher or sea salt |
| ¼ | tsp. freshly ground black pepper |
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