What’s a recipe, really?

From my kitchen by
December 2, 2009

A few weeks ago in the New Yorker, Adam Gopnik wrote about cookbooks and recipes. The piece was fun to read, with lots of rich observations, and I especially appreciated this:

“We say, ‘What’s the recipe?’ when we mean ‘How do you do it?’ And though we want the answer to be ‘Like this!’ the honest answer is ‘Be me!’ ‘What’s the recipe?’ you ask the weary pro chef, and he gives you a weary-pro-chef look, since the recipe is the totality of the activity, the real work. The recipe is to spend your life cooking.”

Some people — lucky for them — are born with good food sense; like our friend Meera, they are great cooks even as kids.

Others of us — we get to grow into it. The only way to become the cooks we want to become is to practice, practice, practice.

Look, if you give a script to seven directors, you’re going to get seven different plays. Even if the stage directions are spelled out in the most minute detail, the results will differ. Sure, all the plays are called the same thing, but each bears the stamp of each director. To an extent, the same goes with a score of music or an architectural blueprint.

And if you give the same recipe to seven cooks, you will get seven different results. Maybe only slightly different, but different, nonetheless.

As cooks, we need not only to taste, smell, and see the food, but we need to hear it and to feel it — and that can’t easily be described — if ever it can. Our knowledge needs to be more than how to measure, how to chop, how to sauté. (And yet, those things cannot be underestimated.)

If I were to take that view to its extreme, then I would have to suggest that cookbooks are a waste of time, but I certainly don’t believe that!

I guess what I am suggesting is that alongside the message for “this is quick,” or “this is easy,” or “this is how you do this,” more cookbooks should emphasize “practice, practice, practice.”

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1. by eamonm on Dec 2, 2009 at 7:34 PM PST

Practice is the key, I think. My wife often comments that I have cookbooks that I never use. I often don’t use cookbooks the way many people might, for the recipe. Since learning how to cook, I use cookbooks in a different way. I use cookbooks for ideas, for inspiration, and in a way to break a cooking “block”. Sometimes I look in the fridge and pantry, stumped about what to make for dinner. I have an idea but am hesitant. I’ll start reading through books and eventually something emerges. What often happens is that the cookbooks affirm my gut instinct. That instinct comes from a long time of cooking- Boy Scouts, college, restaurant work, and just for the heck of it. I really should trust my instincts, but sometimes I don’t. So Julia Child, Viana LaPlace, Michael Ruhlman, Alice Waters, Deborah Madison, Mark Bittman et. al. help me along.

2. by Kim on Dec 3, 2009 at 11:08 AM PST

Hey! I love Viana LaPlace! And all the rest of your favorites are among my favorites too. Yes, the affirmation factor is huge. Sometimes I find myself going on autopilot with recipes, but it’s just not as fun as working something out with inspiration from a favorite cook.

3. by Caroline Cummins on Dec 6, 2009 at 8:45 PM PST

As one of my music teachers used to say, “Practice doesn’t make perfect; practice makes permanent.” In other words, if you do something badly over and over again, you just get very good at doing something badly.

I think we turn to cookbooks not just for recipe ideas or flavor combinations, but for suggestions on technique -- in other words, how to make the practice better, not just permanent. Especially for those of us who never had a talented parent or grandparent to watch in the kitchen.

4. by Fasenfest on Feb 1, 2010 at 5:26 AM PST

And as the middle ground, I will suggest that one or two really great “La Technique” cookbooks will give you both inspiration and information. After that, if you’re not rattling those pots and pans it is most likely cause you don’t want to cook. As they say.....you can lead a horse to an apron but it’s hard to get it to make you an omelet (or something like that).

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