Yesterday, I finished writing a long and wonky argument against the practice of killing baby boy chicks via grinder. The practice is accepted by the USDA and by many veterinarians and scientists, who say, basically, “this is as good as it gets.” I ran through the economics of the poultry industry (much of which I learned from Kookoolan Farms’ excellent email newsletters); because only one breed is raised for meat in the U.S., and that breed is unsuitable for commercial egg laying, the industry has become severed. Sixty or 70 years ago, chickens would be raised together until the roosters started to crow. At that time, most of the roosters would become dinner and the hens would be kept for eggs and to raise future flocks. The male chicks in non-Cornish Cross breeds aren’t raised for meat because, due to their slower growth rate and smallish size, the American consumer is unwilling to pay a price high enough to make feeding and housing them for 16 weeks tenable.
At the end, I make the analysis that the only way to fix this problem is to change the industry back to the way it once was. And in order to do this, we’ll have to pay way more for our food. I used $4 or $5 per dozen for eggs and $5 or $6 per pound for chicken as an example. This may actually be more at first, but would likely become a little less as time went on.
The piece I wrote was promoted on AOL’s welcome screen today and by the end of the afternoon had received thousands of “forwards” (people sending the link on to their friends via email) and many hundreds of comments.
I was sad, though, to see that many of the comments both in emails and on the blog post were a variation on a few themes. One was “I’m never eating chicken or eggs again!” One woman even wrote into the general Daily Finance email to say I’d made her a vegan. Certainly, I’m pleased that my call to action was heard -- but this isn’t my goal. Another was “who cares, animals are for eating and they’re going to die anyway! Give me some chicken.” (This is essentially verbatim from dozens of comments, I left out the crude language and the spelling idiosyncrasies.) A few commenters said they’d only buy organic from now on; a few more said they’d choose free range (neither of these actions would address the problem at all).
Then there were, of course, the substantial set of commenters who accused me of being a liberal with a PETA bias. (Actually, I disagree with PETA’s methodologies and message, but that’s an argument for another day.) And those who were angry we didn’t care more about aborted human fetuses. And the rants spiraled out from there.
But the future of food can’t be about liberal vs. conservative, virtuous vegan vs. ignorant-blissful omnivore. The future of food must be much more nuanced... and much more simple and rational than that.
The future of food must be more expensive than it is today.
I don’t believe, however, that we can’t get there; that this must be elitist; that it’s a choice between human and animal welfare (or, as in many arguments, between limitations on population and covering our eyes with our hands and using up the earth, full fossil fuel-powered speed ahead); that I have to hitch my wagon to either PETA or the NRA. That my refusal to eat supermarket chicken and eggs shows my bias.
It will be hard and lots of us are going to have to demand it and (as they say) vote with our dollar. I have very few dollars with which to vote; that’s why I’m not eating chicken. But in the coming year, I’ll be spending what little money I have to buy a few chickens from friends and small farmers who are raising other breeds slowly and sensibly. I’ll be making alterations on my chicken coop to raise a continuous stream of young layers and, if I can figure out a way, buy my baby chicks from local farmers, not hatcheries. My goal is to one day have enough eggs so I can share with neighbors who agree that this must be changed.
My point was missed by many of the AOL readers. But you understand, don’t you? Yes, we’ll have to eat less chicken. The days of $2 pieces of fried chicken at KFC and Popeye’s may be numbered. (The days of KFC and Popeye’s may be numbered. I wouldn’t mourn.) We’ll have to use more parts of the chicken. We’ll have to learn to cut one up, if we don’t already know; more of us will have to know how to cook. Not everyone; oddly, the elite will still be able to afford to have chefs remove the skin and bones and serve them just the breasts. Ooh la la!
What most of us are missing is that this -- the skinless, boneless chicken part wrapped in plastic doubly and sold singly -- should be the elite thing. Not the whole chicken raised on food scraps and worms and dandelion greens in someone’s small farm, that you have to roast yourself, and of course you’ll save the bones for broth because only rich people can waste food like that.
I’m not -- I don’t want to be -- elite. I’m not biased on behalf of PETA (that’s the other Sara Gilbert). I don’t believe veganism is a healthier alternative.
But I believe we can change the future of food, vegans and bacon-lovers, liberals and conservatives, those who believe in a mother’s right to choose an abortion and those who find the death of a fetus abhorrent. I shouldn’t have to choose sides to believe in humane and sustainable chicken and eggs. I shouldn’t have to kill hundreds of millions of baby boy birds to eat a soft-boiled egg.
And I won’t. Here is my call to action: eat with your eyes wide open. Know where your chicken came from, know how it was raised and what sacrifices were made to get your breakfast to your plate. Don’t rationalize this. Don’t accept it. Don’t mix it up with other issues.
Eat inconveniently. It will cost a lot. Money. Time. Knowledge-seeking. Brutal honesty with your internal ethical self.
It will be worth it.
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1. by dgreenwood on Sep 9, 2009 at 8:00 AM PDT
Well said! That in the last 25 years we have gone from spending about 20-30% of our budget on food to less than 10% should set off alarms. You do in fact get what you pay for. I would only add that by becoming more conscious of your food choices you will also be consuming better tasting food. Thanks for the great post.
2. by Fasenfest on Sep 9, 2009 at 3:58 PM PDT
Hey Sarah,
Thanks as always. And the point, it seems, is our need to go back to the future. To reclaim the small-loop logic of holistic farm systems that suit the land and livestock (and the humans who choose to live humbly amidst it) not traditional market systems. If, and when, we bring expressions of such a holistic system to market, we must respect it as such. We must understand it as requiring our support. They cannot exist on the same playing field as big systems - it cannot be done. Perhaps we need to reframe the conversation by suggesting what folks are really paying for is the ability to usher in humanity over greed -- a steal at $10 a dozen for eggs. That folks are yet unwilling to see it that way is an example of how removed we have become from the way of natural systems. Natural and humane systems should not have to respond to the needs of the market rather the market should respond to them. Crazy idea I know but that is the truth. Keep pushing the natural world to respond to our desire for cheap and we will all soon live in the mono-cultural, genetically manipulated world of Frakenfoods -- heck we are almost there. And we certainly need to learn to cook more and eat less. A dozen eggs goes a long way if you are willing to get in the kitchen. But we are the brats of modernity - the pampered and entitled, believing cheap food, everywhere at anytime is akin with our American civil liberties. Our value systems have eroded over the decades as a result of market manipulation. I think it is safe to assume that as little as two generations ago folks understood the cycle and logic of the natural world with its bounty and limitations. They were not nearly so arrogant. But markets manipulate our value systems because they can; because few of us have ever seen what a truly sustainable farm systems looks like. I think it should be mandatory that every child graduating high school should spend a year on a farm - a sustainable farm. Only then will the next generation begin to knock themselves off the pedestal of privilege (and ignorance) which allows them to consider chicken McNuggets (and other cheap food stuff) a birthright.
So thanks again Sarah. And put me on the list when the girls are laying or the roosters need a pot.
3. by Douglas on Sep 9, 2009 at 5:51 PM PDT
I think just as people are trying to get off the electric grid with solar panels, we need to be getting off the industrialized food system grid and start growing our own food and being more self-sufficient. Just like we need to reduce our dependence on Big Oil companies for fuel, we need to reduce our reliance on corporations to ensure our food safety and also have the peace of mind where it came from!
4. by vesperlight on Sep 10, 2009 at 10:26 AM PDT
I already pay $5 for eggs and $3.50/lb for chicken at the farmer’s market. I think my chicken farmer is raising Cornish Cross. I will have to tell him I would pay extra if he buys “straight run” chickens for his laying hens and raises the roosters for meat.
5. by Judy Phililps on Sep 10, 2009 at 11:13 AM PDT
Thank you, Sarah. I appreciate the content of your article. I am a big advocate of the Weston A. Price Foundation, which is basically going back to the way our forefathers ate. I will continue to educate anyone I can on this concept, and I hope you will do the same.
6. by JeanE23 on Sep 10, 2009 at 1:08 PM PDT
Yes, I understand and agree. One question: Is the meat produced from small, independent farms subject to the the same government inspections and regulations as that from industrial farms? I know our inspection system is experiencing its share of problems these days, and a lot of the rules don’t make sense for small operations, but I’d want to know that there’s some kind of oversight in place.
7. by cafemama on Sep 10, 2009 at 1:20 PM PDT
Jean: well, yes and no. any meat that’s sold commercially (through farmer’s markets or stores) must be inspected and regulated. direct-to-consumer sales often don’t have the same rules. if I buy a chicken from my friend’s backyard, no: no inspection. in that case, though, I’ll be pretty intimate with the slaughtering process (I’ve been begging Chris, who’s linked in my piece, to let me come the next time she gets together with friends to harvest chickens!).
there are some slaughterhouses where you can take backyard chickens who start crowing to be killed and prepped; I believe these have to undergo the same inspections that any other meat processing plant would.
and thanks for all your thoughtful and passionate comments.
8. by Kathryn H on Sep 10, 2009 at 1:46 PM PDT
Thank you Sarah, for such a thoughtful piece. We buy as much as we are able from our small farmers market--I wish we could get cheese, grains and beans, as well as meat, eggs, fruit and vegetables. I am often dismayed by how very little the farmers charge for their labor/produce. Yesterday we bought 10-lbs of Concord grapes for $5; last week 2 cantaloupe and a watermelon set me back $4! I know how hot and backstraining it is to grow and harvest those things and prices like that make me feel I am cheating. I guess I will get my comeuppance when I hand over $50+ for my Thanksgiving turkey! I know I will remember the farmer when we are eating grape jam next winter.
Harriet, your comments are on the money, as usual. I love your idea of “farm service” for young adults--it would go a long way toward changing attitudes.
9. by anonymous on Sep 10, 2009 at 4:08 PM PDT
What a wonderful piece! I remain hopeful that your piece and Mr. Pollan’s op-ed in the NYTimes that observes: “Cheap food is going to be popular as long as the social and environmental costs of that food are charged to the future.” will spark the long-awaited national conversation on how we eat affects not only our personal health, but also the environment and our societal well-being.
There certainly is room for conscious meat-eaters and mindful vegans, but what will make the everyday eater want to be that knowledgeable about their food and what will help transcend that knowledge into everyday action? Your call to action is great start, but what’s next?
10. by Fasenfest on Sep 11, 2009 at 7:34 AM PDT
Anonymous,
Tangibly, it will take intention. It will take looking under the rock of traditional systems and articulating the “whys” of their existence and the why you still participate. It will require us moving away from the easy or easier process of simply buying green or sustainable (or words industry will quickly co-opt) and really thinking through the system of production, distribution and consumption -- every part of that system. It will take curiosity, anger and dismay at the inequity of the traditional system and a call to action within our own hearts and minds that will finally make us act - truly act. It will take a stepping down from the convenience those systems allow in ways we do not yet want to accept. Growing, harvesting and preserving your own food or supporting those who do will require work and time- lots of both. That is something we have yet to saddle up to. It is one thing to look cute at the farmer’s market with a basket of locally grown produce and another thing all together to put up the harvest in a way that will really support local agriculture. I’m not trying to knock baby steps but we are intelligent folks who can really decipher the end game of not responding to the issues at hand but do not always want to. How many books are out there on the matter? Lots. We are yet viewing the issues from the sidelines. We have yet to pick up the hoe (which might be the most concrete way to learn how stinking hard growing healthy organic food is). With most of us working “out there” to get our money to buy our food we are stuck in a system of our own outsourcing. I like to say we have become the new serfs, only fancier. Few of us can do for ourselves, few of us want to, few of us can afford to step down from the 9-5 to give the “life” the time it deserves.
So what tangible? Get serious, get real, work less out there and more in your own backyards (if you can at all afford to), read books, let what you read sink through, articulate the truth become the economic system we all exist in and then create alternative. Capture the modes of production -- become producers not solely consumers. Take “profit” (or profit born at the expense of humans, animals and natural resources) out of the system as best you can (the fewer intermediaries between you and your food the better). Don’t trust stupid labeling and packaging. Get a grip on your willingness to be dupped. Close the loop. Imagine yourselves as the future your kids deserve and stop buying them IPODS and get them a shovel.
Just some ideas.
11. by Judy Phililps on Sep 11, 2009 at 10:12 AM PDT
The above content from Fasenfest just about says it all. It is not only a concept that should be taken seriously, but if we don’t, it is our own fault what comes our way. Believe me, it is not that hard to put up your own food. Learn about canning, preserving, fermenting, dehydrating. I own my own company and I still make time to do these things. Read up on what Alice Waters has to say or the Weston A. Price Foundation. Don’t bring your children up taking the easy way out. Did you know that Alice Waters was the catalyst for starting a class at an elementary school in Berkeley, California where the children can learn to grow their own food. Did you know that every child that was asked said it was their favorite class. Come on, even they know what is right!
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